By Rental Car

Jamaica is big enough-and public transportation is unreliable enough-that a car is a necessity if you plan to do much independent sightseeing. Unfortunately, prices of car rentals in Jamaica have skyrocketed; it's now one of the most expensive rental scenes in the Caribbean. And fraud is a very real concern; stick with our choice below.

Most rental cars in Jamaica are picked up at the airport, not delivered to your hotel. Some hotels have car-rental desks, but in all cases we've found those desks' prices higher than if arrangements were made in advance. Most car-rental firms in Jamaica grant unlimited mileage; if the firm you're calling doesn't, switch to one that does.

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Driving in Jamaica -- Drive on the left side of the road. You should exercise more than usual caution, and be especially cautious at night: Male drivers here are too reckless for comfort. Speed limits in towns are 48kmph (30 mph), and 80kmph (50 mph) outside towns. Gas is measured by the imperial gallon (a British unit of measurement that's about 25% more than a U.S. gal.); most stations don't accept credit cards. Your valid driver's license from home is acceptable for short-term visits to Jamaica.

Road Maps -- A coastal route designated by an "A" plus a number encircles Jamaica. It's well marked and easy to follow. More complicated are secondary roads, urban streets, and feeder roads, whose markings sometimes are infuriatingly unclear. Recognizing this problem, the Jamaica Tourist Board has issued one of the best maps of the island, the Discover Jamaica road map. It contains a detailed overview of the entire island, as well as blowups of Kingston, Montego Bay, Negril, Mandeville, Spanish Town, Port Antonio, and Ocho Rios; there's also a very useful street index to Kingston. Get it from any Jamaica Tourist Board office or car-rental agency.

Mileage Information -- Subject to road conditions, driving time from Montego Bay to Negril (about 84km/52 miles) is 1 1/2 hours; between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios (108km/67 miles), 1 1/2 hours; between Ocho Rios and Port Antonio (106km/66 miles), 2 1/2 hours; between Ocho Rios and Kingston (87km/54 miles), 2 hours; between Kingston and Mandeville (98km/61 miles), 1 1/2 hours; and between Kingston and Port Antonio (98km/61 miles), 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Auto Breakdowns -- In case of a breakdown, telephone your car-rental agency for assistance.

By Taxi & Bus

Most cabs in Jamaica are older vehicles. Taxis in Kingston don't have meters, so agree on a price before you get in the car. In Kingston and the rest of the island, special taxis and buses for visitors are operated by JUTA (Jamaica Union of Travellers Association) and have the union's emblem on the side of the vehicle. Look for a red Public Passenger Vehicle (PPV) plate.

Taxis can be flagged down on the street or summoned by phone. Rates are per car-not per passenger-and 25% is added to the metered rate between midnight and 5am.

Avoid pirate or unlicensed taxis. Not only are they not metered-they are illegal and rarely carry insurance.

By Moped & Motorcycle

The front desk of your hotel can usually arrange the rental of a moped or motorcycle. Expect a daily rate of about $45 for a moped or $70 for a Honda 550. Depending on the vehicle rented, a deposit of $100 to $300 is generally required.

By Plane

Most travelers enter the country via Montego Bay (although American Airlines also flies to Kingston). If you want to fly elsewhere on the island, you'll need to use the island's domestic air service, which is provided by Air Jamaica Express. Reservations are handled by Air Jamaica (tel. 800/523-5585; www.airjamaica.com in the U.S., or 876/952-4300). You can also reserve from home through a travel agent or American Airlines.

Air Jamaica Express offers scheduled flights daily between the resort areas. There are seven flights a day from Kingston to Montego Bay, two flights a day between Kingston and Ocho Rios, and two flights between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios-each about $70 per leg. Car-rental facilities are not available at Jamaica's smaller airports.

International Air Link (tel. 876/940-6660; www.intlairlink.com) also provides shuttle service between Montego Bay and Negril for $66 one-way.

Links & Sources:

• Kingston Transport Map
• Frommers