Kingston

The City of Kingston is the capital and largest city of Jamaica. It is located on the southeastern coast of the island country. It faces a natural harbour protected by the Palisadoes, a long sandspit which connects Port Royal and the Norman Manley International Airport to the rest of the island. In the Western Hemisphere, Kingston is the largest predominantly English-speaking city south of the United States.

The largest English-speaking city in the Caribbean, and its cultural, industrial, and financial center. It's home to more than 750,000 people, including those living on the plains between the Blue Mountains and the sea. The buildings here are a mixture of modern, graceful, old, and just plain ramshackle. The bustling port is evocative of one in Africa, with a natural harbor that's among the largest in the world. The University of the West Indies has its campus on the edge of the city.

Two parts comprise the central area of Kingston: the historic but troubled Downtown, and New Kingston, which is home to the city's most visited attraction, the Bob Marley Museum (built at his former residence). Several other reggae stars, including Buju Banton, Sean Paul and Beenie Man, also hail from Kingston.

Other attractions include the nearby Hellshire and Lime Cay beaches, the National Gallery of Jamaica, the ruins of Port Royal, and Devon House, a mansion with adjoining park that once belonged to Jamaica's first black millionaire.

Kingston is served by Norman Manley International Airport and also by the smaller and primarily domestic Tinson Pen Airport.

Several annual and well-visited festivals are held in Kingston.

Few other cities in the Caribbean carry as many negative connotations as Kingston, thanks to widely publicized reports of violent crime, congestion, bad roads, and difficult-to-decipher traffic signs.

But it is also here that you find Jamaica at its most urban and confident, most witty and exciting, most challenging. No other place in Jamaica offers so many bars, clubs, or cultural outlets. And no other place in Jamaica has such a concentration of creative artists and opinions.

A handful of interesting museums, galleries and churches can easily fill a couple of days of sightseeing; the island's best clubs, theatres and some great restaurants will take care of the evenings. In addition to the lovely Blue Mountains, plenty of other attractions surround the city. The area is littered with historic sites, such as the forts of the English buccaneers in atmospheric Port Royal, while white-sand Hellshire and Lime Cay beaches are the perfect places for a dip in the ocean.

Though undeniable, the crime and violence in Kingston is largely confined to the ghettos, and as these are positively not places for casual sightseeing, you're actually no more at risk here than in any other big city. Take the usual precautions – don't walk the downtown streets alone, take cabs after dark, keep jewellery and valuables out of sight – and you're unlikely to run into any problems. If you do decide to visit, you'll find that not only is it easy to steer clear of the troubled areas, but that there's little of the persistent harassment that bedevils parts of the north coast.

When you've had enough of the city, escape to the Blue Mountains at the northern edge of the city. There is no more beautiful mountain chain in the West Indies. The hills are at their most stunning and evocative when a blue mist hovers over them.

Charms of this Region

Blue Mountains
Satiate your senses in the misty blue with its cool breezes, world- famous coffee, breathtaking valley vistas, bird songs and sweet pine trees.

Spanish Town Square
Walk in the footsteps of a conquistador, pirate, governor or slave, for the past lives in the present in this grand Georgian square.

Devon House
For the city’s best ice-cream, pastry, gourmet cuisine and shopping, visit Devon House, Kingston’s favourite home.

Theatres
Dip into our nation’s creative cauldron for a taste of side splitting comedy or tear jerking drama. Kingston’s numerous theatres promise a continuous calendar of outstanding performances.

National Gallery
Housing the largest collection of Jamaican fine art, you’ll loose yourself in the variety and magnificence of the Gallery’s exhibits.

Carnival
Every Easter season, irresistible soca sounds and dazzling costumes burst onto Kingston’s streets, setting the city afire with Carnival fever.

New Kingston
Abuzz with Kingston’s highest concentration of businesses, restaurants, bars and nightclubs, this miniature metropolis is always a centre of activity.

Restaurants
For even the most discriminating palate, Kingston has something to offer. Island favourites meet international delights in settings ranging from the most elegant bistros to roadside stands.

Nightlife
When the sun sets, Kingston’s wild side comes alive. Hypnotic beats pulse from outdoor parties, street dances and clubs. There’s always somewhere to go, so if don’t leave exhausted you haven’t been at all.

Hope Botanical Gardens

General History: The Royal Botanical Gardens, commonly called "Hope Gardens" occupies 200 acres of land in the Ligunaea Plains of urban St. Andrew. The gardens were established in 1873 on a section of land from the estate of Major Richard Hope, one of the original English colonizers who arrived with the invading force of Penn and Venables.

Today, the gardens are the largest public green space in the Kingston metropolitan region, and are home to Jamaica's most popular collection of endemic and exotic botanic collections. Of particular interest is the Cassia siamea grove by the main entrance, which was planted in 1907, and the other mini-gardens within the park - notably the cacti garden, with its rare varietals; the bougainvillea walk with its magnificent explosions of tropical colors; the annual gardens, with numerous species of exotic flowers; the sunken gardens and the lily pond. Since 1881, the gardens have been maintained by the government, and have been a popular venue for picnics and photographs for city folk who find the quiet calm refreshing after the hustle and bustle of the city.

Now regulated by a special division of the Ministry of Agriculture, the Gardens are more than just a beautiful recreation spot. The Public Gardens Division runs a work-study programme for students of horticulture, and is more than happy to supply information on crop management and botany to curious visitors. In addition, the Public Gardens Division office supplies the general public, groups and communities with seedlings and young plants of almost all the species in the gardens for a small fee and based on surplus availiablity. Also on the grounds of the gardens are a lake, a fountain and a performing arts amphitheatre, which occasionally hosts band concerts by the Jamaica Military Band and poetry readings.

Regulated by a special division of the Ministry of Agriculture, the gardens are more than just a beautiful recreation spot. The Public Gardens Division runs a work-study programme for students of horticulture, and is more than happy to supply information on crop management and botany to curious visitors. In addition, the Public Gardens Division supplies the general public, groups and communities with seedlings and young plants of almost all the species in the gardens for a small fee and based on surplus availability.

Interesting Story: Most of the plants and trees, particularly mango and various spice species found here and in the gardens at Bath originally came from a captured French ship on its way from Mauritius to Hispanolain 1782. It is still highly unclear as to where exactly the plants went, but we do know that the then Reciever General, one Mr. Hinton East owned and operated a gardens near to the gardens at Hope. Since all cargo entering the country had to pass through his hands and be cleared by his office, it is not surprising that years after the fact, after his complaints that Jamaica was being 'left behind by St. Vincent', a smaller island which at the time had a public botanic garden, the whole collection was deposited in Mr. East's Garden which later was transplanted to the Hope Estate.

Famous For: Rare and beautiful species of tropical plants and trees, including the Hibiscus elatus (Blue Mahoe) the National Tree of Jamaica. Blue Mahoe is a small spreading tree with flowers that open in primrose color in the morning and change to orange and deep red as the day advances.

Must See: The Amphitheatre, where the Hon. "Miss Lou" Louise Bennett-Coverly, famous Jamaica folklorist, poet and storyteller used to hold Saturday morning taping of her famous tv show "Ring Ding"

Say hello to: Ms. Camille Webster, Senior Assistant Superintendent of the Public Gardens Division and co-author of the book "Identifying features for Important Trees at Hope Gardens". She is a wonderful person to speak with about all the public gardens in Jamaica and their contents, and she will happily answer questions about botany, conservation and preservation.

Bath

General History: In the eighteenth century, the town of Bath, in the cool foothills of the John Crow Mountains, was one of the most fashionable towns on the island. The town was then an exclusive retreat for the European elite, who subscribed en masse to the healing powers of the nearby mineral springs and took refuge in what were then the most elegant botanical gardens in the West Indies.

When the gardens were established in 1779, they were the first of their kind in Jamaica, and the second in the western Hemisphere. Inside the gates, hundreds of exotic tropical plants and trees were introduced to the island, including a wide variety of palm trees, Asian herbs, and fruit trees from the islands of the South Pacific. The gardens currently occupy a one-hectare property, and some of the trees still present include the breadfruit (Artocarpus altilis) originally from Oceana, the ackee (Blighia sapida) from Africa, and the otaheite apple (Svzygium malacense) from Tahiti, brought into the island by Captain Bligh and first introduced at Bath Botanic Gardens.

Eventually, location, size and poor soil quality contributed to the relocation of the majority of the gardens’ plants to Castleton in the hills of St. Mary. Although the garden and most of its plants have been relocated, the Bath Botanical Gardens are still maintained by the Public Gardens Department of the Ministry of Agriculture for their historical value and the remaining invaluable trees and palms, some of which are over one hundred years old!

After the gardens, the next big attraction of the town was the Bath Fountain – still as immensely popular today as it was two hundred years ago. In the hills just about a mile from the town, a hot mineral spring seeps from its underground source deep beneath the earth’s surface. The water that emerges through a rock has been highly acclaimed for its curative properties, and, since 1747, when the first spa and bath-house were built, has hosted thousands of visitors in search of rejuvenation.

Interesting Story: Bath is quite possibly the only town in Jamaica to have been created entirely because of a mineral spring. Early in the eighteenth century, it was believed that the waters from the spring in the hills of St. Thomas could cure any affliction. In response to endorsements by the medical community, the government acquired the land around the spring source and immediately set about building a hospital to administer to the sick and infirm. Faced with the reality that the springs were inconveniently located miles away from any established town, the hospital plans were accompanied by a town layout which, once built, was named for the mineral spring.

Famous For: The mineral baths are probably the town’s best-known feature. Officially named The Bath of St. Thomas the Apostle, the world famous mineral spring secretes both hot and cold water. The water is high in sulphate and is regarded to be of particularly special value in treating rheumatic ailments and skin diseases. The springs at Bath are probably the most popular among Jamaicans, because although the minerals springs at other spas such as Milk River have a higher mineral content, in the minds of most people, the scalding hot water (usually between 115 and 130 degrees Fahrenheit) from the rocks at Bath seems to have a more poignant effect.

Must See: In the centre of town, across from the Bath Anglican Church are the Bath Botanical Gardens. The gardens, although today a fraction of their former size and containing significantly fewer species of plants and trees, are still captivating and serene, with vine-covered ruins and many old trees, some still intact after over one hundred years!

Say Hello To: At the Bath Fountain Hotel, a small path leads up to the source of the water. Along this path, various people have erected small stalls, selling natural products – anything from fresh fruit to homemade roots wine and honey. Ras Steve operates one of these stalls, but he also offers massages, operates tours of historic Bath, and will provide 'ital' meals on request. Having been resident in the area for most of his life, Ras Steve also knows much of the history of the area and will be happy to share his knowledge.

Bog Walk

General History: Upon seizing control of Jamaica, the English invaders corrupted the 'Boca d'agua' (water's mouth) of the Spanish to Bog Walk. The Rio Cobre runs through this valley, cutting a limestone gorge that is home to one of the most beautiful tropical watershed forests in the island.

The road built along the course of the Rio Cobre is one of the oldest roadways in the island, and is both one of the most heavily trafficked and one of the most scenic routes to the north coast.

From the road, towering cliffs and boulders seem to touch the sky at times, as the gorge is several hundred feet deep. The gorge has been described as “tragically beautiful”, because at one point where the road crosses over the river, there is an eighteenth century cut stone bridge called the Flat Bridge, still in use today, notorious for accidents and flooding. Flat Bridge used to be an infamous spot for motor vehicle accidents, being a one-lane bridge without guardrails and, for a long time, without a system regulating the flow of traffic from one side of the river to another. Today there is a very efficient traffic light system regulating the flow of traffic and preventing dangerous face-offs on the bridge. Flooding is still, however, a regular occurrence – when the area receives heavy rainfall, the river rises, flowing over Flat Bridge and rendering it impassable.

The village of Bog Walk, located five miles north of the gorge, is one of the oldest historic towns in Jamaica. Bog Walk was originally a major rest stop for travellers making the tedious cross-island journey, but in the early 1700s it rose to further importance as an industrial centre. A milk condensary (the site is still used today by Nestlé Foods Ltd.) and a logwood dye factory both catapulted the district into a new role, and for a while central St. Catherine was the manufacturing capital of Jamaica.

The Bog Walk village of today can hardly be called a manufacturing centre, but it is an important market town for small farmers of central St. Catherine. Many of these farmers occupy stalls along the main highway and in the town centre, where there is a small produce market exploding with the rich colours of Jamaican fruits and vegetables.

Interesting Story: The Flat Bridge, literally a one-lane stone bridge that fords the massive and unpredictable Rio Cobre, has been the scene of what some may consider comical moments. Built in the eighteenth century to accommodate a trickle of non-motorized traffic, the bridge has not been modified since – even with the construction and paving of the new A1 highway. Not until the 1990s were traffic lights installed to regulate traffic; up till then, irate motorists would occasionally find themselves solidly squared off, facing an oncoming vehicle on the tiny bridge. With nowhere to turn around and neither side interested in reversing to allow the oncoming traffic to pass, motorists would sometimes be delayed by hours. This situation became so commonplace that it was immortalized in the 1973 Jamaican cult film The Harder They Come.


Must See: The Bog Walk Gorge is an environmentalist’s paradise. The Rio Cobre meanders through the moss-covered limestone cliffs and boulders, keeping the banks of the river emerald green, even in times of drought. The gorge is naturally well stocked with hundreds of species of tropical plants that at points seem to clothe the area completely, virtually unspoiled by human settlement.

Bull Bay

General History: On the border between St Andrew and St Thomas lies Bull Bay, coincidentally or not, beside its less known sister bay, Cow Bay. It is said that both bays were so named because the whole area was once a slaughter centre in the days of the buccaneers and the early days of English colonialism.

Whether the animals slaughtered here were bovine cows and bulls or manatees harpooned in the bay and transported to land to be butchered is yet to be determined.

Today Bull Bay is best known for the camp of the Ethiopian African Black International Congress, populated mainly by priests of the Bobo Shanti Order of Rastafarians (popularly known as the 'wrap heads'). The Bobos, commonly regarded as the most righteous Rastafarians, are known for their entrepreneurial spirit, as they manufacture handmade brooms for sale in the Kingston and St Andrew area.

The camp occupies a prime location atop what is now known as Zion Hill, accessed by a dusty footpath up a steep incline. From the camp there are wonderful vistas of the southeastern coastline, Kingston Harbour and the Caribbean Sea. At the camp, the mood is one of reverence and humility, everyone is welcomed with a salute and the respectful greeting "blessed". Contrary to popular belief, visitors are welcome, but only on the condition that they respect the principles and rites of the camp.

Bull Bay is also known for the nearby Cane River Falls, the closest to Kingston yet one of the most untouched natural attractions in the area. Bull Bay has an energetic, close-knit community, and at night, the coastline pulsates with rhythms from the various nightclubs that line the beach.

Interesting Story: From the gate at Cane River Falls Park, the faint sound of rushing water gently beckons, and one hundred and one steps down a steep narrow walkway, tucked behind huge boulders is a serendipitous find, the Cane River Falls. Although the falls are the closest and most easily accessible by residents of Kingston, the nation's capital, they are still relatively unknown, and on most days no more than a handful of people actually visit.

The falls, just inland from Bull Bay, are said to have been Reggae artiste Bob Marley's favourite place to wash his dreadlocks. Marley would jog and then play early morning football with his friend, the very talented "Skill" Cole, after which the two would make their way to the falls and scrub away in the cool refreshing mountain spring.

Famous For: Bull Bay, (also called Nine-Miles because of its distance from downtown Kingston) is associated in the minds of many with Rastafari, since it is one of the largest settlements of Rastas on the island. The camp, located at 13 Marcus Garvey Way, Zion Hill, comprises the homes, prayer houses and meeting places of more than three hundred Rastas, with separate units for men and women. Generally, the Rastas in the camp observe strict prayer rites at specified times, and at 6am, 12pm and 6pm the chants and drumbeats can be heard from as far away as the coast.

Must See: Not far from the village of Bull Bay, at the top of the Queensbury Ridge, is a monument to “Three-Finger” Jack Mansong, an eighteenth century "Robin Hood" character said to be associated with the region. Three-Finger Jack began his life as a slave on a nearby plantation, but in his adult life was labelled a rabble-rouser and was sentenced to death for inciting other slaves to rebellion. Jack cheated death and took to the hills, terrorizing the British authorities and landowners.

According to folklore, Jack would waylay, intimidate and rob passers-by on the road between Kingston and Morant Bay but, on principle, he never stole from other slaves or from poor people. Eventually, Three-Finger Jack was captured and executed in 1781, but tales of his exploits still resound in the St. Thomas countryside. The monument is strategically located in an area long known as "Three-Finger Jack Corner", a breathtaking lookout point that offers stunning views of the Caribbean Sea from between two small hills. Right in front of the plaque there is a small area for vehicles to pull off the main road, and the view alone is worth the stop!

Say Hello To: The Rasta Brethren at Zion Hill are usually welcoming to visitors since a part of their mission is to educate others to the true words of Haile Selassie. Outsiders, however, must be aware that the Rastas there have strict rules governing the presence and behaviour of visitors, which the Rastas also observe. If you venture up to Zion Hill, ask at the gate for Priest Allan, who will enter your name in the visitors’ log, explain the rules and ensure that your visit is pleasant and informative.

Castleton

General History: Some twenty kilometres north of Kingston lies the small village of Castleton, known for its most famous attribute, the Castleton Botanic Gardens. The gardens at Castleton were established in 1862 to facilitate the relocation of the Bath Botanic Gardens, making it one of the oldest public botanic gardens in the western hemisphere.

In just a few years after the move, the gardens at Castleton were the most richly stocked in the Caribbean, boasting over 180 species of palm, and at least 400 specimens of other flora.

The garden occupies approximately ten hectares of land in the cool, verdant hills of St. Mary. It is divided by the main road to Junction with another end adjacent to a rocky river bed where women from the village can sometimes be seen washing clothes in the small seasonal stream. Many of the trees and plants introduced to Jamaica were first planted here, most notably the Bombay mango, navel orange and tangerine. Other important exotic trees, palms and shrubs in the garden today include: Cestrum nocturnum (Night Jasmine), Spathodea campanulata (Flame of the Forest), Litchi chinensis (Chinese Guinep) and Sanchezia nobilis (Hummingbird Fountain).

The fifteen-acre gardens are open to the public, and Castleton is a popular picnic spot for Kingstonians eager for a break from the city. The Wag Water river flows through Castleton parallel to the botanical gardens, adding to the serenity and pristine beauty of the area.


Famous For: Castleton Botanical Gardens, ideal location for a day's outing and picnics. Be sure to stop to look at the more than 25 varieties of palm trees, some of which are over 100 years old!

Half Way Tree

General History: “Uptown” meets “downtown” in the constantly entertaining and lively road junction that is Half-Way-Tree. The capital of the parish of St Andrew, Half-Way-Tree is the unofficial marker of the divide between the urban, inner-city commercial areas of downtown Kingston, and the quieter, residential suburban communities of St. Andrew.

Surrounded by schools, offices, stores, banks and other commercial interests, Half-Way-Tree is a shopper’s paradise, since everything imaginable can be bought there. The range of shopping options is almost infinite, you can find the proverbial pin-to-an-anchor in the stores of the plazas, arcades and malls along Constant Spring Road, or from vendors that line the streets or walk about hawking their wares. In fact, passing through Half-Way-Tree, everyone seems to be busy, at the same time moving to reggae music which seems to radiate loudly and constantly from the walls of buildings, but which really is coming from vendors selling audio tapes of the most recent dance or dancehall “session”.

The major centre of activity north of downtown Kingston, Half-Way-Tree tells its own story in name, temperament and landscape. The area originally gleaned its name from the fact that until 1866, when it died of old age, a huge cotton tree dominated the landscape. The tree was a major meeting point for travellers and traders coming to and from Kingston, Spanish Town, St. Thomas or St. Mary who would stop to refresh themselves at one of the pubs or to haggle with other vendors.

Today, even though the tree is gone, the junction is still a major transit point for commuters. Half-Way-Tree, is in fact, the second largest bus and taxi terminus in the Kingston area after the Parade downtown. Beside the bus depot is the Nelson Mandela Park, named for the anti-apartheid activist and former President of South Africa. Nelson Mandela and his ex-wife Winnie Mandela (who both visited the island on his post-release world tour) are regarded as heroes of sorts in Jamaica, where the anti-apartheid movement was particularly intense.

At the intersection where Constant Spring Road, Hope Road, Hagley Park Road and Half-Way-Tree Road meet, stands the Half-Way-Tree Clock, atop a Victorian-era clock tower. The tower and clock were built by public subscription in 1913 as a memorial to King Edward VII of England; on the north side is a bust of the king, and the inscription “Edward VII, Peacemaker”.

The St Andrew Parish Church, built in 1700 and restored three times since, rests at the intersection of Eastwood Park Road and Hagley Park Road is. The church is designed in the neo-Gothic architectural style popular at the time, and contains many interesting artefacts, including the oldest church registers on the island, which date back to 1666 and contain an exhaustive account of the many births, marriages and deaths of members of the privileged classes since the English arrived in Jamaica. Behind the church is the Parish Church cemetery, with a number of old tombstones, many of which tell interesting stories about the people buried there.

Beside the church, on Hagley Park Road, is the Half-Way-Tree Courthouse, a magnificent brick building built in the early 1800s. Also of note is the Richmond Park Great House, located along Half-Way-Tree Road heading towards Cross Roads. The Great House itself has been refurbished and is houses the Jamaican Georgian Society, a non-profit group that seeks to identify old buildings and help to preserve Jamaica’s architectural heritage.

Famous For: Shop! Shop! Shop! Buy! Buy! Buy! Without a doubt, Half-Way-Tree is best known for its commercial character. Along Constant Spring Road there are many plazas and malls, including the popular "Bend-Down Plaza", a market-style arcade specializing in high-fashion urban gear. There are some things available elsewhere that are best purchased in Half-Way-Tree, specifically: handcrafted leather slippers, "sound cassettes" (audio recordings of dances) and Rasta-made tams, jewellery and belts. Look for wicker baskets and other straw items on nearby South Avenue.


Must See: The St Andrew Parish Church is certainly one of the most interesting landmarks in the area, and as one of the oldest and most beautiful churches in Jamaica, a walk through the church or attendance at one of the weekly services is an experience definitely worth the time.

Hellshire

General History: The name Hellshire among Jamaicans conjures thoughts of white-sand beaches, and the famous beachside fish and festival. Hellshire is one of the oldest continuously settled areas in Jamaica; yet, it has traditionally been one of the most sparsely populated places on the island.

Hellshire receives very little of the rainfall that keeps most of Jamaica green and lush, and only a small fraction of the less than 30 inches per year is retained in the highly porous limestone soil. The result is an extremely arid area with many rare species of flora and fauna specifically adapted to the environment. Ecologically rich as the area is, however, with no continuous fresh water supply, human communities have traditionally been small and transient. The area was originally settled by the island’s first inhabitants, the Tainos, then later by groups of runaway slaves and communities of hunters and fishers determined to withstand the region's harsh terrain.

Efforts to develop the area into various types of industrial sites have consistently failed, prompting scientific research to investigate other potential uses. The results have been promising; today there are plans to turn the area into a reserve for the protection of the important natural resources and the unique habitats of endangered and protected species of flora and fauna.

Also in Hellshire is the famous Fort Clarence Bathing Beach, with public facilities and a minimal entry fee. Named for the fort, which once stood as part of the ring of forts and batteries that protected Kingston Harbour from potential invaders, Fort Clarence Beach is the premier beach accessible to residents of Kingston and Portmore, and a popular venue for reggae and dancehall concerts. In line of sight from the beach at Fort Clarence is the old Fort Augusta, now a correctional facility for women.

Further along the coast, the fishing beach at Hellshire has become one of the most popular bathing beaches on the South Coast because of the spirit of community and the generally mellow vibe of the beach. This seaside community's humble roots can be easily evidenced by the fact that although the beach is now popular among sunbathers and other beach-goers, the fishing culture still dominates. Spend a day there, and you will see fishing boats coming ashore intermittently, intercepted on the beach by higglers who either cook on the beach or take the fish to be sold inland.

Above all, Hellshire beach is an excellent place to meet and hang out with ordinary Jamaicans since on this beach, reggae music unites, and social barriers become obsolete as people from all imaginable backgrounds swim, eat, talk and play together.

Famous For: The fishmongers on the beach here first created festival, a sort of sweet bread usually served with fish, - or so they claim. The seemingly simple recipe is often imitated but rarely duplicated successfully - at any rate as well as it is prepared at Hellshire. Kingstonians have many theories about this, some claim that a sprinkling of sand is the secret ingredient; others claim that a dash of seawater mixed into the batter is the trick. Either way, it is a tasty and filling complement to a meal of fresh escoviched fish that is practically synonymous with Hellshire.

Must See: The Hellshire Hills are one of the last remaining habitats of the iguana, a large reptile that once roamed the entire island. Short hikes through the hills may create an encounter with these colourful and stately creatures, but do not attempt to catch or even touch one; the iguana is a protected species under Jamaican law.

Say Hello To: Miss May, who operates one of the most popular spots to enjoy a meal on the beach. Miss May is one of the longest standing cooks on the beach, and her shack, occasionally run by one of her children, is one of the most easily accessed from the road. Like many of the other vendors on the beach, Miss May specializes in fish and festival, although she will quickly identify someone to prepare lobster on request. The beauty of Hellshire, however, is that just about anything is possible, so if one vendor's prices or location don’t suit you, there are close to 100 vendors on the beach to choose from.

Lime Cay

General History: If the idea of a pristine, secluded beach, on an uninhabited island, easily accessible from the capital city sounds too good to be true, then a complete change of perspective is in order (after all, this is Jamaica!) The fantasy does exist, although it is still somewhat of a secret kept from tourists who do not explore the hidden charms of the capital city and the south east coast.

Fifteen minutes by boat from Port Royal is a small, low-lying island cay with one of the most beautiful beaches in Jamaica. Largest of the many small cays off the coast of Port Royal, Lime Cay is uninhabitable by humans because it is occasionally submerged when the tide comes in. Lime Cay has been the source of many scams and hoaxes whereby the cay is "sold" to unsuspecting buyers as a potential location for a private resort. Don't be fooled, Lime Cay is a part of Jamaica, and the beaches there are public and open to all who can get out there.

On Sundays, Lime Cay is the favorite beach getaway for city folk, many of whom moor their boats at the Morgan's Harbor Marina and sail out for the afternoon with lunch and refreshments, since there are no facilities on the island. From Morgan’s Harbor, a shuttle or boat rental for the day can be arranged, but for the intrepid visitors, a small fee will convince a fisherman in the town of Port Royal to give you a ride to the island in the morning and return for you in the evening.

Also of note are other cays in the vicinity (smaller and more susceptible to submersion than Lime Cay however), Maiden Cay, Drunkman's Cay and others each with their own charm and privacy.

Interesting Story: The Cays just off the coast of Port Royal have long been a haven for outlaws, miscreants and reprobates. From the days of “Calico Jack” Rackham (for whom a cay is named) to the more recent Ivanhoe “Rhygin” Martin, (the outlaw of the 1960s immortalized in the Jamaican movie The Harder They Come) the cays have witnessed their fair share of exciting captures and incredulous getaways!

Famous For: Sunday afternoon lymes on Lime Cay are very popular among Kingstonians. On weekdays clothing optional sunbathing is acceptable since there in all likelihood will be no one around. On Sundays, however, the tone and temperament changes completely, as the tiny island pulsates with life, laughter and good times.

Must See: Some of the best snorkeling on the south east coast of Jamaica can be done around Lime Cay and the other small islands nearby.

Say Hello To: Wave at passengers in Air Jamaica planes!! Lime Cay is nearby the Norman Manley International Airport, so you can toast the low-flying aircrafts as they arrive or depart Jamaica.

Linstead

General History: Made famous by its bustling weekly fresh produce market, Linstead is a small inland town that has been a favourite meeting place for central Jamaicans since the nineteenth century. As a major commercial centre, farmers from the fertile hills and adjacent plains would journey here to sell a wide variety of produce, and thus, the town of Linstead developed primarily because of the market.

Linstead market, made famous by the old Jamaican folk song "Carry mi ackee go a Linstead Market", was once the largest and most popular market in St. Catherine, if not in the whole island because of its prime location for farmers and vendors alike. The areas around Linstead are overwhelmingly rural, and the economic hardship of the people, usually small farmers, gave rise to the song's lament "carry mi ackee go a Linstead Market/not a quattie worth sell/laawd, what a night not a bite/what a Saturday night."

Famous For: Since each town or village in Jamaica now has its own market, the Linstead Market has declined somewhat in importance. In the nineteenth century, however, it was a key meeting place for wholesalers of coffee and pimento for export. It is still one of the most frequented markets, however, because its reputation has lasted through the years as one of the best places in Jamaica to access fresh farm produce. The market has branched out somewhat, and now just about any item, from the latest fashions to toothpaste and homemade soap can be bought from the vendors there, who sometimes display their goods in wooden stalls on the streets.

Must See: The Linstead Anglican Church, the Church of St. Thomas-In-The-Vale has a remarkable history. Originally built in the seventeenth century, this church has been destroyed by a number of hurricanes and an earthquake, but each time has been assiduously rebuilt and re-consecrated by its congregants. The most recent rebuild happened in 1911, and although there is no doubt that this one will blow away (having lasted through three major hurricanes in the twentieth century) it should be safe to say that it will be rebuilt, if necessary!

Mona

General History: In the shadow of the John Crow Mountains that mark the northern boundary of Kingston’s corporate area, is the community of Mona, a generally quiet suburban neighbourhood with wide tree-lined streets. The area is named for the expansive Mona Sugar estate, which once held stone aqueducts that supplied water to plantation and later to the city of Kingston. The Mona Reservoir has since replaced the old aqueduct system and today is a main source of water for the Kingston metropolitan region. The reservoir is a popular venue for the heath conscious, who usually congregate at sunrise and sunset to run, walk or jog the 1.7 miles around its perimeter. Within the environs of Mona are two of the region’s largest and most prestigious tertiary institutions – the Mona Campus of the University of the West Indies and the University of Technology. As a result of this fact, the area is culturally diverse, hosting students and faculty who hail from all over the Caribbean and beyond.

Interesting Story: The stone blocks used in the construction of the University Chapel originally formed an old Great House in the parish of Trelawny. When the once stately mansion was abandoned and began to crumble, the remaining blocks were painstakingly removed and carted to Kingston where they were reassembled on the campus. This feat was undertaken at the request of the then chancellor of the University, Princess Alice, aunt of Queen Elizabeth II.

Famous For: The University of Technology (formerly CAST - the College of Arts Sciences and Technology) offers the Caribbean’s premier architecture and hospitality training programmes, and houses Kingston’s largest sculpture garden. The UWI Mona campus is a rather picturesque one, featuring modern halls and buildings interspersed with the relics of stone aqueducts. UWI (pronounced you-wee by students) also always has an interesting lecture, conference, theatrical production or dance scheduled, most of which are open to the general public.

Must See: On the Mona Campus of the University of the West Indies is the University Chapel with its gardens. The chapel is open for use by UWI students, staff and faculty of all denominations, although outsiders may reserve it for special services. For many Kingstonians, without any connection to UWI, the chapel is a popular place for weddings, as the bold architecture set against the cool multi-coloured mountains makes for a very romantic, almost fairy-tale backdrop.

Morant Point

General History: The most easterly point in Jamaica is marked by a solitary lighthouse, perched at the end of a small promontory at the end of the island. Besides the lighthouse and the groundskeeper’s cottages, there are no other buildings in sight for miles, as the Duckenfield sugar Estate extends almost to the eastern coastline.

The balcony at the top of the lighthouse provides a phenomenal view of the various cane pieces of the estate, the Blue Mountain range, the St. Thomas coastline, and the seemingly endless Caribbean Sea. To the west of the lighthouse lies one of the most secluded yet spectacular beaches on the island, Holland Bay. The route to the lighthouse and the beach is not direct, nor is it easily accessible. Do not attempt the journey in anything less than a very reliable vehicle, and be prepared to get lost in the cane fields. Usually there is someone in the fields, and a quick question may save much time and distress.

Interesting Story: The Morant Point Lighthouse, an unmistakable red and white, 100-foot tall, 18-foot wide cast iron tower was built in 1841. It is the oldest lighthouse in Jamaica, and certainly one of the more sturdy; located on the furthest tip of the island’s east coast, the first point of impact from hurricanes, it has withstood the brute force of gale-force winds and high seas. The lighthouse was built by Kru men, West African workers who came to the island voluntarily and were settled in large communities on the Amity Hall and Hordley Estates in the Plantain Garden River Valley. The West Africans came to Jamaica as indentured labourers from Sierra Leone in the period just after slavery to replace the labour force lost with Emancipation of slaves in 1834. As a result of this migration, the area is known for its strong retention of African customs and heritage - even today strains of African influenced language, religion and settlement patterns have been recorded here.

Famous For: Holland Bay, a large cove with a strong surf and powder-white sand, is certainly worth the trek through an unmarked cane piece starting in Golden Grove. Most times, the beach is deserted and serene, with the only noises coming from the nearby lighthouse compound.

Must See: From the balcony of the Morant Point Lighthouse, uninterrupted views of Jamaica's eastern coastline, the vast greenery of the sugar and banana plantations and the blue shadows of the Blue Mountain range are sure to dazzle and amaze. Do exercise caution ascending and descending the stairs; there are MANY of them, and they are somewhat steep.

New Kingston

General History: If your travels bring you to the city of Kingston, you will, at some point, probably end up in New Kingston, the fast-growing commercial district that is increasingly becoming the business centre of the country.

Built on lands formerly part of the Knutsford Park Race Track, major construction projects in New Kingston began in the late 1950s, and still continue today. The result – most of Jamaica’s modern multi-storeyed office blocks, the visible representation of the high-flying financial service industry, are clustered here.

Running through the centre of New Kingston is Knutsford Boulevard, where most businesses are located, and which is, in the day, the core of Jamaica's financial sector. By night Knutsford Boulevard becomes Kingston’s playground, and the glamorously fashionable patrons of the numerous bars, nightclubs and restaurants replace stodgy suited professionals.

Apart from the nightlife, New Kingston offers visitors a chance to experience Jamaican history and culture. To the west of Knutsford Boulevard is Devon House, a stately historic mansion with expansive, meticulously manicured lawns that has been converted to a museum with outlying craft shops and gourmet restaurants. On the southern end of the boulevard is Emancipation Park, one of the largest public green spaces in the city, with jogging trails, an amphitheatre and a mini-botanical garden.

Dotted along the minor roads around Knutsford Boulevard are numerous art galleries, shopping malls such as the New Kingston Shopping Centre and the Island Life Mall, and performing arts theatres such as the Barn Theatre, and the Little Theatre, home to the internationally acclaimed National Dance Theatre Company. However, by far New Kingston’s most popular attribute is the number and variety of restaurants. Here, all kinds of cuisine are available – from Jamaican to Japanese, from burgers to Blue Mountain coffee – in settings that range from elegant restaurants to intimate bistros and rowdy sports bars.

Famous For: The northern section of Knustford Boulevard is lined with bars, lounges, nightclubs, restaurants and other entertainment hot spots. At night the street is filled with vendors and revellers moving from venue to venue, and the partying often does not stop until the next morning, when it is amusing to see diligent executives arriving to start their day, passing by straggling clubbers on their way home.

Must See: In the middle of Knutsford Boulevard is the Asylum nightclub, the most popular disco in Kingston. Each week, Asylum has theme nights, of which two of the more exciting nights are Ladies’ Night and Dancehall Night, when selectors from Stone Love Sound System take over the turntables. Both are especially worth a night out on the town, but if clubbing is not your passion, join the throngs of onlookers and stand outside the club observing the patrons as they go inside. The outrageous hairstyles, fashions and vehicles of the men and women that come into the club are a spectacle all by themselves – sometimes amazing, or entertaining at the very least.

Say Hello To: The Jamaica Tourist Board has its head offices on Knutsford Boulevard in the heart of New Kingston. Please, stop by our information desk and feel free to ask us anything about Jamaica or just to tell us how your stay is going!

Trench Town

General History: This community in the Jamaican metropolis has the distinction of being the island's most infamous inner city neighbourhood. Trench Town is the humble breeding ground for great Jamaican Reggae artistes including Bob Marley, Peter Tosh and Bunny Wailer. In the 1940s, the government began developing housing solutions for the masses low-income of people in the city of Kingston. Trench Town was one such development, named for the community's location in what was then called Trench Pen. The development had areas separated for recreation, commerce and dwellings, with the residential areas divided into 'yards' with communal sanitary conveniences and kitchen facilities. In these close confines the creativity blossomed, producing some of Jamaica's most talented musicians and artists.

Trench Town has always been a densely populated inner-city area, but over the years, the community changed in character as well as in size. Today Trench Town's 20 000 plus residents mainly live in government residential projects with names like Texas, Havana, Brooklyn, Angola, Mexico and Zimbabwe, and while the system of communal kitchens has disappeared, the conditions of living have not improved much since the 1940s. The community is still desperately impoverished, overcrowded and in dire need of infrastructure development and maintenance, but this has not hindered youth from aspiring for better, as have other famous sons and daughters of Trench Town.

The Trench Town Development Association, a grassroots organization funded by various development interests is working to address the needs of the community. One of the TTDA's projects is the Trench Town Culture Yard, a bright and colourful set of buildings with the Jamaican and Rasta flags flying at the entrance. Located on First Street in a series of yards converted to one compound, the yard has always been an informal meeting place for musicians; from the early days residents would set up sound systems inside the yard and hold dances on the bordering streets. The Culture Yard was created to encourage musicians, singers, artists and tourists to come to Trench Town to experience the 'vibe' that inspired so many. Their efforts have not been in vain, and the small organization now has a restaurant, gift shop, and a museum documenting the lives of the many musicians that hail from the neighbourhood.

Famous For: Trench Town in mentioned by name in one of Bob Marley's most famous songs, the soulful hit tune 'No Woman, No Cry'. In the song, Marley recalls the days, "when we used to sit/inna government yard in Trench Town/observing the hypocrites/as they would mingle with the good people we meet...". The song details the sentiment of hopelessness and despair shared by residents, which Marley and others defied, finding hope and solace in music.

Must See: The Trench Town Museum is a humble, yet moving record of the history of the community and of its successful residents. Inside there are pieces of memorabilia, photos and life stories told by the people shared the hard times with them.

Say Hello To: Tarta, a long-time friend of Bob Marley and co-author of some of the Wailer's hit songs, was the original resident of #8 First Street, and sometimes can be found inside the yard. Look out also for Stoneman and Blackstarliner, regulars in the yard, they will be able to show you around or just sit and reason about life, love, celebrity and Rastafari.

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Links & Sources:

• WCities
• Wikipedia
• Frommers
• Rough Guides
• Lonely Planet
• Jamaica Touristboard