Mandeville

Perched on the Manchester plateau 2000 feet above sea-level, Mandeville is unlike other rural Jamaican towns: it is cool, it is clean, and there are no slums. Thanks to energetic promotion by the Central and South Coast Tourism Organization, the town is a magnet for discerning visitors and an excellent base for exploring the central hills and the south coast.

The parish of Manchester was created in 1814 by the then governor, the Duke of Manchester. The parish capital, founded in 1816, was named after his eldest son, Viscount Mandeville, and was one of four hill stations for the Army. Once a haven for English gentlefolk who deemed it the closest thing to home, it was a prim and rather static place until the advent of the bauxite industry in the 1950s. Overnight Mandeville became a roistering boom town, began to grow and flourish and has continued to do so ever since. As a market centre for farmers, a dormitory town for two large alumina companies and the first choice of returning retired Jamaicans, the town enjoys a relatively stable economic base and offers the pleasures of rural life with the convenience of a mini-city.

The largest of 12 shopping plazas is the Manchester Shopping Centre on Caledonia Road; there are cinemas and discos, several first-class restaurants, a large public library, two hotels, several guests houses and a golf club. number of schools and colleges include: Manchester High School, Bishop Gibson High School, DeCarteret College, Belair, St Joseph's Academy, The Church Teachers Training College and the West Indies College. In Mandevilleís benign climate both temperate and tropical plants flourish: agapanthus lilies and sweet peas beside hibiscus and bougainvillea, robust vanda orchids beneath peach and lychee trees, begonias and nasturtiums growing wild on the banksides. Mandeville has one of the oldest Horticultural Societies in the world and is famous for its annual flower show and splendid private gardens some of which can be toured by appointment.

Places of Interest

KIRKVINE WORKS

Alumina Jamaica, a subsidiary of the Alumina Company of Canada Ltd, (ALCAN), was the first aluminium company to begin operations in Jamaica. It acquired its bauxite reserves in the 1940s, began construction of its Kirkvine plant near Mandeville and its shipping facility at Port Esquivel near Old Harbour in late 1950, started mining in 1952 and shipped its first cargo of alumina in January 1953. Subsequently, Kirkvine was expanded and another plant built at Ewarton to process the large deposits of bauxite acquired in St Ann. Ore is mined in open pits using dragline excavators and front-end loaders, then transported by dump trucks and cable belt conveyor (at Ewarton) or aerial ropeway (at Kirkvine) to the plants. A limestone quarry at Kirkvine supplies the raw material for the burnt lime used in transforming bauxite into year alumina. Alcanís own rolling stock transports alumina via the Jamaica Railway tracks to their shipping facilities at Port Esquivel in Clarendon.

Only a small portion of the land bought by the company is used for mining at any one time. To utilize the rest of their holdings Alcanís agricultural department developed a model livestock (beef and dairy cattle) and citrus operation on 8,000 acres. They also supervise 4,600 tenant farmers on another 23,000 acres. In 1978 a joint venture agreement with the government of Jamaica transformed Alcan Jamaica into Jamalcan with the government company, Jamaica Bauxite Mining Ltd, acquiring 7% of Alcanís mining and refining assets and all bauxite lands. Alcan Jamaica retains the management of Jamalcan. Alcan has proved to be the most dependable of the bauxite/alumina companies operating in Jamaica. It has never closed, and was first to appoint a Jamaican as Chief Executive. The current General Manager is Dr Keith Panton. At the bottom of Shooters Hill, as you approach Mandeville from the north, the first thing you see is the Kirkvine factory. A large mined out area and the red mud lake are visible to the R as you begin the climb via Kendal to Mandeville. Alcanís corporate office flanks the golf course on Brumalia Road. Their staff Sports club in the residential area of Ingleside offers badminton, swimming pool and gymnasium. Use of these facilities can be arranged by a member. Tours of the factory by appointment.

ALPART

As you leave Mandeville at Spur Tree, you will pass Alpartís corporate offices and see their Nain factory on the plain below. Alpart was originally a partnership between Kaiser Bauxite, Anaconda and Reynolds who during the 1960s pooled technology and land assets and invested US$200 million in a state of the art plant which began operations in 1969, but became a cost nightmare when oil prices skyrocketed during the 1970s. Anaconda sold out to the other two partners and by 1985 Alpart had closed. Subsequently Reynolds sold out to Kaiser and Norsk Hydro and in 1990 the plant re-opened under Kaiserís management.

A 9 mile cable belt conveyor built in the early 1980s allows Alpart to mine high quality ore on the Manchester plateau. The alumina is transported by private railway from the factory at Nain to Port Kaiser near Alligator Pond; a port that was built by Kaiser and originally used to export bauxite.

Like other bauxite/alumina companies Alpart has an extensive land rehabilitation and agricultural program, run by Alpart Farms, and is also involved in community work. Perhaps their greatest gift to the area is water. St Elizabeth is a notoriously dry parish and Alpart provided water free from their wells at Nain to surrounding districts. However, red mud disposal has created problems. Before Alpart closed in 1985, U.W.I. scientists had documented the fact that the water table at Pepper was being polluted by seepage from the Alpart mudlake. The condition of the aquifer since the plant re-opened is unclear. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

WEST INDIES COLLEGE

This Seventh Day Adventist complex offering education from primary to tertiary level enforces a strict code of conduct, a vegetarian diet, and emphasizes the dignity of manual labour by requiring all students to complete a number of hours in the College bakery, printery, workshops or farm before graduation.

CHARLTON MANSION

Mr Cecil C. Charlton is a retired politician, self-made millionaire (Charles-Off betting shops), farmer and philanthropist whose palatial octagonal home, Huntingdon Summit, is open to the public by appointment. Charlton served as Mayor of Mandeville for over 20 years and to some people will always be Mayor Charlton. The house crowns a hill on the eastern edge of town, the first of a growing number of palatial Mandeville residences.

MARSHALLS PEN

An eighteenth century great house set in a delightful garden on a 300 acre cattle property. Once a farm house and coffee factory owned by the Earl of Balcarres, Governor of Jamaica 1795 to 1801, it has been continuously occupied ever since and is filled with antiques, paintings and curios, each item with its own fascinating story which the owners Mr Arthur Sutton and Mr and Mrs Robert Sutton will relate to you. Tours can be arranged through Countrystyle Ltd. Birdwatching and hiking are also available here. Robert Sutton, an ornithologist and his wife Anne, an environmental scientist, are both extremely knowledgeable about the island's wildlife and ecology. Accommodation is also available by arrangement.

ROXBOROUGH

The birthplace of Jamaican National Hero, the Rt. Excellent Norman Manley, founder of the People's National Party and Premier 1955-1962. The site is maintained by the Jamaica National Heritage Trust. The house was destroyed by fire, leaving only the barbeques used for drying pimento grains and a terraced garden. There is a stunning view over the plains of Clarendon. Manley's older cousin and future political rival Alexander Bustamante worked on the farm here for a short time before leaving for a life of adventure in Cuba, Spain and the U.S. In later years Manley remembered him as a skilled horseman.

Manley, a British trained barrister, was a brilliant advocate. A somewhat austere person, lacking the charisma of his cousin Busta, Norman Manley possessed an ironic sense of humour and in his younger days was an outstanding athlete. His sophistication and singleminded pursuit of political independence made him the hero of the emerging middle class. He married his English born cousin Edna, an artist in her own right. The couple lived at Drumblair (then a suburb of the city) and attracted a circle of Jamaican artists, writers and scholars. The Drumblair Set has had a profound impact on politics and art for almost three decades. Manley's younger son Michael graduated from Trade Union leader to succeed his father as President of the PNP and twice Prime Minister of Jamaica. An official function marking the national hero's birthday is held here every.

To Do

HIKING AND HORSEBACK RIDING: at Perth Great House, a Georgian mansion built in 1760 and owned by John Nightingale's family for over 100 years. Phone (809) 962-2822.

CUSTOM BUILT ECO TOURS: When he is not too busy planning and lobbying for alternative energy projects for rural districts, Tony Goffe will plan and conduct eco-tours to cater to special interests, be it fossiling for agates, hunting for orchids or exploring the source of rivers. Phone (809) 962-2149.

MRS STEPHENSON'S GARDEN: Reputed to be one of the finest in the island. Tours, conducted by the horticulturist herself, can be arranged.

FACTORY TOURS: The High Mountain Coffee and Chocolate Factory at Williamsfield, the Pickapepper Sauce Factory at Shooters Hill and the Bammy Factory in Mandeville can all be toured by appointment.

COUNTRYSTYLE TOURS: This local company, based at Astra Hotel and owned by Mandeville's tourism dynamo Diana MacIntyre-Pike, can introduce you to all the above. They also have listings of accommodation options from luxurious villas with maids and butler to modest bed and breakfast rooms.

Their latest project Village Tourism provides an authentic introduction to the life of a rural Jamaican village using trained community guides the local school teacher, postmistress, pastor or shopkeeper, etc. and allows you to attend or participate in community events like church harvests, school fairs, independence celebrations, etc.

Mandeville Information

There is no Jamaica Tourist Board office in this city.
Information is available from the Central & South Tourism Committee at the Astra Country Inn, on the western outskirts (tel. 876/962-9758, 876/376-6176, or 876/450-3443), open daily 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.

• Banks-- A branch of National Commercial Bank (tel. 876/962-2083) can be found at 9 Manchester Rd.; open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 3pm, Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm.
• Hospital-- The town's major hospital, Mandeville Hospital, Hargreaves Avenue (tel. 876/962-2067), is the best medical center in the Central Highlands of Jamaica.
• Internet Access-- The Internet Café at Manchester Shopping Centre (tel. 876/961-1829) is the largest in Jamaica, boasting 20 computers and charging J$200 (US$3.30) per half-hour. It is open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 5pm.
• Mail-- The Mandeville Post Office, South Racecourse (tel. 876/962-3229), is open Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm. To mail packages, it's more efficient to use Airpak Express, 11 Caledonia Rd. (tel. 876/962-5101). Include "Jamaica, W.I." in all island addresses. The island has no zip codes.
• Pharmacy-- The most convenient drugstore is the Caledonia Mall Pharmacy, Shop G5, Caledonia Road (tel. 876/962-0038), open Monday to Friday 8am to 5:30pm, Saturday 8am to 4pm.
• Safety-- The police station, 8 Parkerson Rd. (tel. 876/962-2250), is on the north side of the central village green. Of all Jamaica's cities, Mandeville is the safest; still, take all the usual precautions.
• Travel Agencies-- The best one is Sterling Travel, Caledonia Plaza (tel. 876/962-2203), open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm.

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Links & Sources:

• Wikipedia
• Frommers
• Rough Guides
• Lonely Planet

Books:

Tour Jamaica, by Margaret Morris (Gleaner Company, 1988), describes an island of infinite variety with interesting and warmhearted people. Covering six regions, the book provides data on places of interest, local personalities, and historic and topical anecdotes. Featured are 19 recommended tours.