Falmouth Heritage Walking Tour

The Tour:

TRELAWNY PARISH CHURCH OF ST PETER
A landmark from 1796, its graveyard holds tombstones that are over 200 years old. The church’s interior has some unusual features such as a high pulpit and ceiling, as well as many beautiful decorative touches, including colourful stained-glass windows and mahogany furnishings. The tallest building in town, the church’s bell tower affords a beautiful bird’s eye view of Falmouth.

After exploring the grounds and interior of St Peter’s, exit through the main gate onto Duke Street. Directly facing the church is the colourful Abby Villa. Begin walking in an easterly direction along Duke Street, passing several buildings which whisper of the town’s former magnificence. Turn right at King Street, and continue until you arrive at the Baptist Church at the intersection of King and George Streets.

THE KNIBB MEMORIAL BAPTIST CHURCH
First built in 1844, but destroyed in 1944 and rebuilt in 1948, this building has served as a centre for those professing the Baptist faith in northeastern Jamaica for almost two centuries. During the 19th century, the Baptists were at the forefront of the abolitionist movement in Jamaica. They focused much of their efforts in the parish of Trelawny, of which Falmouth is the capital, because it had more slaves than any other parish in the island. William Knibb, one of Jamaica’s foremost Baptist missionaries, organized the construction of the original church. Look for the graves of Knibb, his wife and son in the church grounds.

From the Baptist Church, continue east along George Street and make a left onto Market Street. Walk one block, returning to Duke Street, and resume walking in an easterly direction, until it opens into the town centre, Water Square.

WATER SQUARE
Falmouth was the first town in Jamaica to have running water. In fact, the town boasted a plumbing system before many of the major cities in the world, including New York in the US, had running water. Starting in the early 19th century, fresh water was pumped from the nearby Martha Brae River to a tank in the square, and then pumped to the surrounding houses. Water was also channeled to the docks, so that visiting ships could replenish their fresh water supply. Although formerly called Charles Square, its present name serves as a reminder of this interesting fact.

On the southern side of the square is the famous Albert and George Market.

THE ALBERT AND GEORGE MARKET
Opened in 1894, the Albert and George Market was once the hub of activity on the North Coast. Anything and everything was sold there, from fresh produce to slaves. Today, it holds 20 or more wooden stalls, selling crafts and fresh produce. There are also some small displays of historical artifacts such as coal irons and coffee mills. Stop in and browse through its eclectic collection of goods.

After the market, take a southeasterly trek along Lower Parade Street to the harbour district. Turn left onto Tharpe Street. At the intersection of Upper Harbour and Tharp streets, you’ll find a large dome-shaped structure hidden within a complex of warehouses.

THE DOME
During the 19th century, this Falmouth landmark was part of an iron foundry, built to repair metallic parts for sugar mills and cargo ships. To the seaward side of the dome is the Central Warf, where slaves were brought ashore and taken to the market to be sold. During Falmouth’s heyday, the foundry was very busy, because the town was a major shipping and sugar port. At that time, over a hundred ships and smaller vessels regularly docked in the harbour, many of which were usually in need of repair after their long journey from Europe and Africa.

After viewing the dome, walk along Tharpe Street toward the sea. At the end of the street, you’ll find the Tharp House.

THARP HOUSE
One of three houses in Falmouth owned by John Tharp, the house sits directly on the waterfront. Tharp was one of the island’s richest planters and largest slave owners. In the days of slavery, slave ships and other merchant ships used to dock in front of the house. Today, the building has been restored and is used as the Tax Collection Office. In the yard, you can see remnants of the old Tharp Warf.

From the Tax Office walk north along Seaboard Street. Fronting the harbour, this area was considered prime property and many wealthy merchants built their homes there. A couple of these buildings are still standing today and have been restored. At the end of the street, you’ll see:

THE COURTHOUSE
A grand, imposing edifice, the present building is a replica of the original 1817 Georgian structure, which was destroyed by fire in 1926. When court is in session, you will find throngs of cars and people in front of the building. To the seaward side of the courthouse is a small cenotaph, erected in honour of those Jamaican soldiers who fought and died during World Wars I and II.

Directly to the northwest of the courthouse, at the intersection of Trelawny and Market Streets, you’ll come across the recently renovated Baptist Manse, and the Moulton Barrett House.

THE BAPTIST MANSE
Built by the Barrett family in 1798, this building was the home of Jamaica’s most famous non-conformist Baptist preacher and abolitionist, William Knibb. Knibb came to Jamaica from England in 1825. While in Jamaica, Knibb preached about the cruelty of slavery and actively advocated the freedom of all slaves. As a result, he was arrested, but later released. Knibb served as the spokesman of the Jamaica Baptist Church and went to England to petition for the end of slavery, which eventually occurred in 1838. The Manse is a beautiful building with finely crafted stonework and wooden staircase. It has been tastefully restored and is currently used as an exhibition hall and offices.

On the north side of the intersection is the Moulton Barrett House:

MOULTON BARRETT TOWNHOUSE
Falmouth’s most renowned family, the Barretts, once owned this house. Edward Barrett, great-grandfather of English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning, started the development of Falmouth in 1790. The offices of Mr Neville Hammond (Justice of the peace and World War II veteran) are located upstairs. Drop in and say hello! Mr Hammond is very knowledgeable about the history of Falmouth and may be willing to sit for a chat.

Once you’ve seen the Manse and townhouse, turn toward the sea and walk along Market Street. Turn left onto Lower Harbour Street. At the first intersection you’ll see a white building on your right. This is no. 4 Lower Harbour Street.

4 LOWER HARBOUR STREET
This beautifully renovated building is the home of noted archaeologist and restorer, Dr James Parrent, who is extremely knowledgeable of the town’s history. Dr Parrent is the head of the Falmouth Heritage Renewal Inc., by which several of the small cottages found throughout the town have been restored.

Directly across from Mr. Parrent’s house is a small green cottage, No. 3 Lower Harbour Street.

3 LOWER HARBOUR STREET
This quaint cottage, renovated by the Falmouth Heritage Renewal Incorporation, is a private home. In the 19th century, many homes like this one belonged to the free-black population. Over time, they became very dilapidated but, thanks to the Falmouth restoration project, have recently regained their old charm.

Montego Bay Heritage Walking Tour

Introduction:

Once called el Golfo de Buen Tiempo (Fair Weather Gulf), and La Bahia Manteca (Lard Bay), Montego Bay’s rich history includes the stories of Spanish conquistadors, grand sugar plantations and infamous slave rebellions, namely the Sam Sharpe Rebellion of 1831. Today, Montego Bay is Jamaica’s second largest city and the island’s most popular tourist region. In spite of its development, the city’s colourful past is still alive in the relics that stand throughout the town.

Start: The Dome, at the intersection of Dome and Creek Streets.
Finish: Sam Sharpe Square
Distance/Time: 1.5 km

The Tour:

At the intersection of Dome and Creek Streets, you’ll spot an odd dome-shaped structure.

THE DOME
Built in 1837, this brick edifice guarded the issue of the creek that supplied much of Montego Bay’s water. The “Keeper of the Creek,” the person responsible for managing the city’s water supply, resided in the dome until the river’s course shifted in the late 19th century. With continued road construction around the Dome, parts of it eventually became covered.

After visiting the Dome, walk westerly along Creek Street, until you reach the intersection with Payne Street. Turn right and walk northward until you arrive at:

ST JAMES PARISH CHURCH
(Entrance on Church Street). This glorious 18th century edifice boasts numerous plaques and monuments, commemorating the lives of several prominent figures in the history of St James, including members of the Barrett, Kerr and Jarrett families. Of note are two marble monuments, created by John Bacon, a famous 18th century British sculptor. Typical of parish churches, the building possesses an old pipe organ and many beautiful stained glass windows.

Directly facing the Parish Church (on Church Street), and located inside a Georgian mansion, is the Town House Restaurant.

TOWN HOUSE RESTAURANT
Dating from 1765, the Town House Restaurant maintains its old world charm in the heart of the modern city. The two-storey, red brick building is a fine example of 18th century Georgian architecture. The restaurant offers inside and outside dinning, and serves a savoury menu of international and local dishes. For over a quarter of a century, the Town House Restaurant has been one of Montego Bay’s most popular dining spots for both lunch and dinner. Its guest book reportedly includes such famous names as Sean Connery, Steve McQueen, Dustin Hoffman, Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russel. The restaurant is also famous for its collection of local art, displayed on walls around the dining area.

Once you’ve visited the Town House Restaurant and perhaps had a bite to eat, walk in an easterly direction along Church Street, taking the first left onto King Street. Continue northwards along King Street. At the corner of King and Market streets, you’ll find the Burchell Baptist Church.

BURCHELL BAPTIST CHURCH
Thomas Burchell, a Baptist Missionary and abolitionist, founded this church as a spiritual home for the soon-to-be-freed slaves. Sam Sharpe, one of Jamaica’s seven national heroes, was a deacon of the church. Sharpe was instrumental in the fight for the freedom of Jamaica’s slaves. In 1831, he instigated a rebellion which is accredited with advancing the end of slavery in the Caribbean. The Sam Sharpe Rebellion (also called the Christmas Rebellion) was one of the largest and most violent in colonial history. During the rebellion, the Burchell Baptist Church was destroyed and so the present building was erected in approximately 1835.

Leave the church and make a left turn, walking westerly along Market Street toward the historic Sam Sharpe Square.

SAM SHARPE SQUARE
Formerly called Charles Square, the name of this town centre was changed in 1981 to commemorate Sam Sharpe’s efforts in the fight for freedom. In the aftermath of the 1831 rebellion, it is estimated that 312 slaves, including Sam Sharpe, were hung at the gallows in the square.

At the north end of the square you’ll see a brick structure, called the Cage.

THE CAGE
Built in 1806, the cage was used as a temporary prison for slaves, drunken seamen, and other vagrants. Slaves found wandering the town after 3 p.m., were locked up in the cage. Originally, the cage was made out of wood, but it appears its occupants managed to damage the structure and so it was rebuilt with bricks.

At the centre of the square you’ll find:

THE CIVIC CENTRE
Opened in 2001, the Civic Centre houses a museum dedicated to the history of the parish of St James. The centre was constructed on the site of the old Montego Bay Courthouse, which was built in the 19th century and later destroyed. During its tenure, the old courthouse observed many tumultuous and monuments events, including the trial of Sam Sharpe and his followers, who were all sentenced to death for their involvement in the Christmas Rebellion of 1831.

THE SHARPE MONUMENT
This commemorative sculpture, created by one of Jamaica’s leading artistes, Kay Sullivan, depicts a preacher delivering a sermon to interested listeners seated around.

You may end your walking tour of Montego Bay at Sam Sharpe Square, but if you are feeling energetic and would like to see more, walk north from the square along Fort Street towards the “Hip Strip” and Fort Montego, which lies about .5 miles (800m) from Sam Sharpe Square.

The FORT (FORT MONTEGO)
This old fort once guarded Montego Bay Harbour. Today, it contains the remains of an artillery store and a few well-preserved cannons as well as several souvenir and craft shops. Since this is the last stop on your walking tour, spend some time hunting the fort’s craft market for a few special gifts or reminders of your trip to Jamaica!

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Links & Sources :

• Wikipedia
• Frommers
• Rough Guides
• Lonely Planet
• Jamaica Touristboard