Montego Bay

Jamaica's second largest city, MONTEGO BAY nestles between the gently sloping Bogue, Kempshot and Salem hills, and extends some ten miles from the haunts of the suburban rich in Reading at its western edge to the plush villa developments and resort hotels of Ironshore and Rose Hall to the east. It's made up of two distinct parts: the main tourist strip Gloucester Avenue (rechristened by the marketing men as the "Hip Strip"), and the city proper, universally referred to as "downtown" – a split so sharp that most tourists never venture further than the dividing roundabout.

The "Hip Strip" wouldn't exist were it not for Montego Bay's prize asset: a dazzling bay with miles of coral reef (now designated a marine park) and some beautiful beaches. Much of the coastline has been snapped up by the hotels, but there are three main public beaches along the length of Gloucester Avenue, all with showers, changing rooms, snack outlets and watersports concessions and a minimal entrance fee.

Charms of this Region

Great Houses
If walls could talk these stately old homes would share great tales of witches and rebellion, ruin and triumph!

Golf
With five world championship courses, Mobay is a cut above par. Hit a few with breathtaking mountain vistas or the turquoise Caribbean, creating the backdrop for an exciting round.

Historic Falmouth
Journey into the Nineteenth Century and tour the elegant town homes of the plantation era in one of Jamaica’s best-preserved historic towns.

Glistening Waters
Watch mystical waters illuminate a tropical night. Hailed as the brightest in the world, Glistening Waters’ lagoon ignites with each touch…don’t miss this Jamaican wonder.

Cockpit Country
Legends abound, this vast limestone forest teems with exotic flora and fauna. Explore the hidden caves, trails and waterfalls of Jamaica’s most wild and untouched region.

Hip Strip
Day & Night, MoBay’s happening hip strip has something for you – great beaches, fine food, trendy bars and a non-stop party vibe that sizzles year round.

Duty Free Shopping
Find your own treasure among the exquisite collections of Montego Bay’s vast Duty free world.

Reggae Sumfest
Every summer, the World’s Greatest Reggae Festival brings thousands of music lovers to experience once-in-a-lifetime performances by reggae’s top artistes.

Martha Brae Rafting
Experience the magic of gliding through miles and miles of this emerald green forest on your own bamboo raft. It’s sure to enchant you into falling in love all over again.

Doctors Cave Beach
Sun-splashed shores awash with crystal-clear water beckon. Give in to your desire…

Martha Brae

General History: The town of Martha Brae, called Rio Matibereon by the Spanish was originally an early Spanish settlement built on the banks of the Martha Brae River. The river is said to be haunted by the spirit of the woman for whom it was named. Martha Brae, it is alleged, was a Taino girl who was the only person to know the location of a secret gold mine.

The Spanish tortured her relentlessly until she agreed to lead them to the mine, but in defiance she called on her supernatural powers to overcome her captors. To defend herself and her secret, she created a rainstorm, which shifted the course of the river and swelled its banks, drowning her and her extraordinary secret. At the same time, the waters blocked the entrance to the mine, sealing inside whatever may have been hidden there.

It is unlikely that such a mine ever truly existed, but over the years the river has proven itself to be worth its length in any precious metal. The Martha Brae has supplied the town of Falmouth and indeed much of agricultural Trelawny with water since the Falmouth Water Company introduced piped water to Falmouth in 1798. The river rises at Windsor Cave in the Cockpit Country, and meanders slowly through the Trelawny countryside for over thirty-two kilometres, watering acres of sugar cane, citrus groves and forests on its way to the sea. The town, located slightly inland from the harbour-side town of Rock, though it was the first capital of the parish of Trelawny, never really equalled the stature or importance of its counterpart, Falmouth.
In its brief heyday, Martha Brae was a strategically placed town; connected directly to a constant supply of fresh water and far enough inland to offer protection from potential invaders, but with convenient access to the seaport via the river. Eventually, however, access from the port and harbour at Rock became impossible because of the river silting, and the harbour and town were abandoned as parish capital in favour of Falmouth to the west.

Today, very little remains of the original town to indicate that it once was a significant centre, but the river has not diminished in importance. The Martha Brae still supplies most of Trelawny’s water supply, and is a vital source of income for rafters, fishermen and countless others who live on its banks.

Famous For: Rafting down the Martha Brae River is certainly an experience not to be missed. The three-mile journey on bamboo rafts is a relaxing and soothing ride, meandering through a scenic, lush rainforest. River rafting is a very safe and laid-back activity in Jamaica; there are no dangerous animals in the water, and rarely does the river move fast enough to have the entire journey last less than 45 minutes!

Must See: Almost every afternoon, guests are treated to Mento, the traditional Jamaican music, by a small troupe of musicians based at the Martha Brae Rafter's rest. Before embarking on a raft with one of the experienced 'captains', do enjoy a cold fruit punch or rum punch at the hospitality area and allow yourself to be entertained by the tropical sounds of the band.

Albert Town

General History: Named for Prince Albert, consort of Queen Victoria, Albert Town is the largest town in southeastern Trelawny, an area dotted with small villages, rural communities and agricultural districts.

Located on the outskirts of the Cockpit Country, much of the area’s beauty lies not in the small busy town centre, but just outside the town, in the cool hills and valleys covered with exotic tropical flora, intriguing inter-connected limestone caves and numerous underground rivers and waterfalls.

Albert Town is truly a bird-watcher's paradise, as dozens of species endemic to Jamaica and to the Cockpit Country pass overhead with startling regularity. On any given day, observers will notice wild yellow and black-billed parrots, yellow-billed amazons, and flocks of 'Doctor Birds,' a species of hummingbird indigenous to Jamaica.

As the central town in an area of Jamaica that produces about 50% of all the yams exported by the country, Albert Town is the home of the annual Trelawny Yam Festival. In the week leading up to Easter Monday each year, the town comes alive when visitors from all over the island and farmers from all over Trelawny come together for a week of street parades, exhibitions, and a variety of competitions. The yam festival culminates on Monday with the Yam Farmers’ Competition, in which yams are judged according to their quality, weight, size and shape. The week-long celebration and exposition have done much to generate excitement and interest in yam, a key component in the average Jamaican’s diet.

In recent times, Albert Town and its surrounding communities have struggled to maintain their agricultural way of life, faced with falling yam prices, environmental degradation and urban drift. In light of these problems, the South Trelawny Environmental Agency (STEA) was formed by collaboration between local interests, government and several non-profit development agencies. The outcome of the STEA's efforts is encouraging; the most impressive and noticeable impact being made in the area of soil conservation. Researchers estimate that since the agency began exposing farmers to methods of cultivation that conserve topsoil, about 60 tonnes of topsoil have been saved in those areas.

The soil conservation project is only one of many promoted by the STEA, which generally focuses on generating environmental awareness within the various communities, and with developing Eco-tourism Projects to provide eco-friendly and sustainable income-generating alternatives for residents. On account of the STEA's development and training work in the area, Albert Town is now an excellent base from which to explore the Cockpit Country and environs, and the STEA will assist visitors in planning and executing most bird-watching, camping, hiking and caving trips.

Famous For: YAM! A staple in the Jamaican diet, the yam is an edible tuber originally brought to Jamaica from West Africa by slaves transported across the Atlantic Ocean. Today there are no less than ten varieties in cultivation in Jamaica, including the common “afu” or yellow yam, the coarse white “Negro” yam, “renta”, “mozella” and the soft white Lucea yam. Yams are grown mainly on the western side of the island, predominantly in the hilly interior of Trelawny, Hanover, Westmoreland and St. James. The tubers grow underground covered by “hills”, raised mounds of soil around the yam plant with long sticks stuck in the centre for the vines to climb on. In and around Albert Town, afu yam is king, and yam, in any form is available all times of the year – in copious quantities for cooking in every manner possible.

Must See: Albert Town, on the edge of the Cockpit Country, is riddled with many underground springs and cave systems that extend beneath the hills and valleys. Some of the most scenic caves accessible to visitors are located in southeast Trelawny, in very close proximity to Albert Town. The Rock Spring Caves and the Quashie River Sink Caves, each no more than fifteen minutes drive from the town centre, offer two of the most captivating caving experiences in Jamaica, with mazes, secret chambers and waterfalls within the various limestone rock formations.

Say Hello To: Donovan Haughton is a member of the STEA and a tour guide based in the STEA Albert Town office. He is an amazing person with a wealth of information at his fingertips and a refreshingly positive attitude towards life. Donovan has lived in Trelawny for most of his life, and so can assist with almost any tour and accommodation requests for the Albert Town area.

Clark's Town

General History: Clark’s Town is located in the heart of the Trelawny sugar belt, and is a busy rural town with an interesting history. After the emancipation of slaves in Jamaica in the mid 19th century, the owner of the Swandswick Estate, Mr G.M. Clarke donated a thirty-acre tract of land on the edge of his estate to be used for the development of a “Free Village”.

The village at the time was structured in the traditional free village style, with a centrally located church and the houses of mainly sugar estate workers. This was not the typical free village, however, since the traditional free villages rose out of land acquired and developed by a coalition of missionaries and emancipated slaves. Unlike the others, Clark’s Town was built by an estate owner, perhaps with the intention of keeping the labourers on the plantation.

Currently there is a debate as to whether the church was originally Baptist or Anglican, as that fact would give further insight into the history of the town. Despite it all, the town stayed within its 1843 boundaries for almost a century, surrounded by sugar estate lands. Only in the past fifty years has the town been allowed to grow, and today it is no longer a small village but a bustling transportation hub and with an energetic populace. St. Michael’s Chapel, the church around which the village was built, is still standing, and is a beautiful structure set against a background of miles of green cane-fields.

Famous For: Gold Label Rum is probably the best-known product from the Clark's Town area. Gold Label is produced and distilled at the Long Pond Sugar Factory, a ten-minute drive from the centre of town.

Must See: The quaint and charming St. Michael’s Chapel was at one time was the tallest building in the entire area. Back then, in a village surrounded by miles and miles of nothing but sugar cane, a small stone building standing quietly in a sea of wind-rustled green, must indeed have been a spectacular sight.

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Cockpit Country

General History: Often regarded as Jamaica's most inhospitable region, the Cockpit Country is a hilly and dense area with limestone denudations traversing three parishes and covering over 500 square miles. The so-called “cockpits” are caused because limestone, the predominant soil in the area, does not retain water.

Rainwater therefore, percolates downward through cracks and fissures, creating in time a landscape of pits and valleys. Below the surface of the Cockpit Country are hundreds of rivers, streams and caves, providing some of the best spelunking opportunities in the Caribbean. Most of the Cockpit Country was a stronghold of the Maroons from the eighteenth century, when attacks by the British forced ex-slaves to use the harsh terrain to their advantage. The Cockpit Country is still home to one of the most important Maroon communities in the island, the town of Accompong in the parish of St. Elizabeth.

Famous For: The Cockpit Country has the highest diversity of plants and animals anywhere on the island. It is a goldmine for birdwatchers, plant lovers and scientists with a sophisticated knowledge of the various species and a determination to withstand the humidity, the mosquitoes and the other harsh physical conditions that have kept the region free of large scale human settlement for centuries.

Must See: Clark's Town is the last major town in the northern Cockpit Country, but there is a little used road that runs from the town through the western edge of the Cockpits ending in the Albert Town area. This is an exquisitely scenic drive, as the road winds through the tiny communities of Kinloss and Barbeque Bottom, cutting through some of the most remarkable geological formation in Jamaica. The road is rarely used, and there are patches that run through completely uninhabited areas. Along the way are some of the most remarkable vistas, and if, instead of driving, you walk the length of the road, you will be sure to see many rare animals and plants, including hundreds of orchids growing wild on the sides of the hills.

Duncans

General History: The residents of Duncans, Trelawny describe their hometown as a quiet, humble place where everyone knows each other's name and people "live good" together. This small, clean town in rural Trelawny was named after its founder Patrick Duncans and dates back to the late 1700s.

Since then, it has produced many outstanding personalities: Harry Belafonte, world renowned folk singer, actor and civil rights activist was born here; William Knibb, the fiery Baptist preacher who lead the nation's struggle for the abolition of slavery is buried close to the church which he founded; and Diego Columbus, explorer and son of Jamaica's first tourist, Christopher Columbus, is also buried here.
The real charm of this community, however, rests not in who was here, but in who is here – the people of Duncans are pleasant, easygoing and welcoming of strangers and tourists.

If truth be told, there is not much to do in Duncans, and it is, in fact, the doing nothing that may make the visit worthwhile. In the centre of town is a large clock tower, and around the town square are a number of shops and roadside vendors. Here you can find just about any goods or services from the barber to the tailor to the local supermarket and haberdashery. Further down the road are a number of pubs that are frequented by locals and visitors alike.

In Duncans you will also find Silver Sands Estate, a world famous exclusive beachside resort community with villas available for rental or leasing, and a beach that some insist is the best in Jamaica. The beach is a hit among wind surfers with equipment available for rent nearby.

Located along the highway on the north coast between Falmouth and Rio Bueno, Duncans is an ideal place to be based if one decides to explore the parish of Trelawny, for the main road connecting Jamaica’s inland towns begins at the clock tower in the centre Duncans. Many of the historic sugar estates and Great Houses of the parish are to be found just to the south of the town, and there is a tour company that will arrange excursions from Duncans to a wide selection of attractions.

Famous For: Some have described the beach at Silver Sands as the best strip of beach in Jamaica, and that may very well be true, given the reef-protected bay with its powdery white sand. Most of the beach is private property, available only to those who rent or own villas on the Silver Sands Estate, however, it extends westwards too, and there is a similarly spectacular public beach called Fisherman's Beach just to the west of Silver Sands. Most of the locals use this beach, which has a pleasant laid-back vibe and has attracted not only fishermen, but also a number of artists, craft workers and cooks, who all help to make a visit memorable.

Must See: Stewart Castle, once a magnificent and stately mansion, is located to the west of Duncans. The house, which belonged to a wealthy planter by the name of James Stewart is now in ruins, but still exudes an air of grace and grandeur, and is an excellent place to stop by for a picnic, or just to explore and photograph.

Say Hello To: Fisherman's Beach has a small but lively arts and craft community. If you happen to go there for an afternoon, do stop by the stall of the eccentric and celebrated folk art carver Mr. Walton Spence, who offers his work for sale, but gives his solid words of wisdom for no charge at all.

Falmouth

General History: For the architecture or heritage buff, the coastal town of Falmouth in Trelawny is a virtual goldmine. In the late 1700s, when sugar was ‘King’ and the profits from the sweet gold made the fortunes of men, families and nations, Falmouth was an elegant centre of commerce. Today, the bustling, tight-knit town is but a shadow of its former self with hues of its past opulence and majesty.

A sugar boom in Trelawny led directly to the creation of Falmouth. It began during the mid-1700s, after a peace treaty between the British colonists and the Maroons, the independent guerrilla rebels of the hills, allowed sugar estates to be run without the threat of invasion. The high sucrose content of the land, naturally irrigated by the many springs flowing from the nearby Cockpit Country, lured more and more planters to the area, and by 1773, when Trelawny was made its own parish, there were over eighty sugar plantations in operation.

Falmouth, named for the birthplace of the then governor, Sir William Trelawny, started as the brainchild of Edward Moulton Barrett, the great-grandfather of the famous poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Barrett, a wealthy planter and merchant at the time, laid out the plans for the development of the town on a piece of property he owned, then called Palmetto Point; at the time it was the only planned urban centre on the island. By 1793 there were close to 150 palatial residences, some the townhouses of planters from adjoining districts, others the fashionable two-storey homes above the shops of merchants who dominated the portside economy. There were also the more humble dwellings of artisans, servants and slaves who formed the backbone of the economy.

In its heyday, Falmouth was considered to be the most cosmopolitan city in the western world, the ‘Paris of the Indies’. The town had five newspapers, an active literary and fine arts society and – arguably its most distinctive attribute – fresh running water pumped from the Martha Brae River and piped from a reservoir in the centre of town into homes and other buildings. It was also home to a vast number of merchant shops and traders selling slaves, sugar, rum, fine furniture and logwood as well as the Albert George Market, the largest and most popular coastal market at the time.

Since those times, Falmouth has maintained a long and distinguished reputation as a centre for commerce, both in the formal and informal sectors. Today the market is still one of the largest and most attended – especially on Wednesdays – when traders from all over the island congregate on the streets for ‘Bend-down market’. On Wednesdays, consumers can purchase all sorts of foodstuff, haberdashery and home items at some of the best prices available on the north coast.

In the late 1800s, following the demise of sugar as a globally lucrative agricultural product, Falmouth began a steady decline in importance, and soon the harbour which once welcomed close to thirty ships in one day, saw fewer than that in a month.

Now the sugar money is long gone, but many of the splendid original buildings remain, some in ruins, others masterfully restored to their former glory. In recognition of its rich historical legacy, Falmouth has been declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations, and is a Jamaican National Monument. Slowly, the town is being restored, one building at a time, and most residents expect that in the near future their town will once again be the most fashionable and cosmopolitan city in the Caribbean. Until such time, Falmouth will continue to be a centre of commerce on the north coast, and certainly deserving of the attention it periodically receives. The town still exudes a spirit of grandeur, and a walk through town reveals charm and grace where once was wealth and prosperity.

Interesting Story: Most of the town of Falmouth lies on land below sea level, and shortly after the town was built, concerns about the purity of the water supply were raised, particularly because most residents accessed their water from wells dug to the same level as pit latrines. In 1798 a committee, formed to explore solutions to the water problem, devised what was then a marvellous breakthrough. The Falmouth Water Company, the group instituted to install and manage the works, built a Persian Water Wheel on the nearby Martha Brae River. The water wheel scooped up hundreds of gallons of water, transferring it via metal pipes to a reservoir in the centre of the town square. From the reservoir, water was piped into buildings around town. There was even a connection to a pump on the dockyard so that ships could replenish their fresh water supplies without crewmembers leaving the wharf!

The development of the Falmouth water supply system is just one indicator of the wealth and grandeur of the town. In the eighteenth century few cities around the world had piped water, even the much larger cities in North America like New York City were behind the times in this area.

Famous For: The town of Falmouth certainly contains the largest collection of Georgian style buildings in the country; some estimates, however, claim this collection is also the largest in the West Indies! The number aside, some of the finest representations of buildings from the period are to be found here, and each of these structures tells a unique tale of different people's lifestyles and of the economic and social significance of the town better than any written record could represent.

Over the years, some of these very telling structures have fallen into disrepair, but slowly this trend is changing. A committee of professionals, academics and concerned citizens formed the Falmouth Restoration Corporation, and this small group has been managing and overseeing the restoration process of buildings around town, on a case-by-case basis.

Perhaps the most encouraging trend in the restoration of the town is the fact that not only are large public buildings and the grand stately homes of the merchant and planter classes being restored, but the small private homes of members of the working classes, of the emancipated slaves and skilled artisans. For now, and quite possibly for a long time to come, the restoration of Falmouth will be a work-in-progress, but over time and following the established trend, the town will once again be the vibrant, graceful urban centre it was once.

Must See: Although the best way to capture the essence of Falmouth is to do a complete walking tour, there are some buildings that stand out, even more so after restoration. One such building is the Baptist Manse on Market Street near the waterfront, an imposing stone structure with a stately wooden staircase. Reputed to have housed the first Masonic Temple in Jamaica, this building has changed hands many times. Perhaps, its most notable owner was Revd. William Knibb, famous Baptist preacher and abolitionist. Today it is a flagship structure in the town’s restoration. The completed project will not only contribute to the physical renewal of the town, but also to the cultural revival of the community. The lower level of the building will house a community-based initiative, while the upper level will be an art gallery displaying the work of local artists.

Say Hello To: Say hello to Dr. Jim Parrent, Executive Director of the Falmouth Heritage Renewal is the man in town to speak to. Under his leadership the restoration of many homes and buildings in the town has been undertaken and completed, and that is just a tiny part of his contribution to the town!

Depending on his schedule, he may guide you on a walking tour of Falmouth, or put you in touch with a trained guide attached to the Jamaica Heritage Trail, a community-based agency designed to stimulate interest in the heritage and architectural legacy of the town. Ask anyone around town where to find him, and if someone does not recognize the name, ask for "the white man who fixes the houses around town". You'll find him.

Good Hope

General History: Settled in 1774 by Colonel Thomas Williams Jr., Good Hope began as a sugar estate and grew to a village to support the workers after Emancipation. In the eighteenth century the Good Hope Estate belonged to John Tharpe, then the largest land and slave owner in Jamaica.

Aside from Good Hope, Windsor Estate, the extensive Long Pond Estate and a number of other smaller sugar plantations in Trelawny belonged to Tharpe, who had as many as 3000 slaves to run the plantations. In addition, Tharpe owned much of the prime waterfront property in Falmouth, and his townhouse, now the Falmouth branch of the government tax office, is still one of the most elegant structures in the town.

The small village has some of the best examples of Georgian architecture in the island, and the churchyard has many old and interesting tombstones. On the estate, the Great House, the Slave Hospital, the Counting House and parts of the sugar mill aqueducts and water wheel are still standing, and generally, Good Hope is regarded as having the largest number of well-preserved plantation buildings on the island.

Ideally positioned to take advantage of the tropical breezes and to observe the activities on the estate, the Great House veranda offers a commanding view of the paw-paw and sugar cane laden Queen of Spain Valley, and spectacular vistas of the northern Cockpit Country. At dawn, the Cockpit Country comes alive, and floating gently on the morning mists are the energetic songs of wild birds.

The Great House has many antique pieces, but of particular interest is a very unusual bathtub, said to be the first of its kind in Jamaica. The tub itself is inlaid with tiles over a lead mould, and was provided with hot water from a copper water heater just outside the room. Other antiques are scattered through the house, blending with more modern pieces to shape an elegant country home. Unfortunately, tours and walk-in visits are not available since the Good Hope Estate is privately owned and the Great House, Counting House and Carriage House have all been refurbished as discrete completely staffed ultra-luxury villas.

Interesting Story: John Tharpe, an Englishman who came to the West Indies to seek his fortune, was one of the most successful of his kind - he actually did make a fortune, and lived like a king in some of the most elegant homes on the island. Tharpe made his money from slave trading, and slowly invested and purchased real estate and slaves till he became the largest slave owner on the island, with thousands of slaves working the soil of about 10 000 acres of plantation lands.

Although he had a choice of four sons from which to name an heir, all four displeased him, and upon his death in 1804, he named his grandson sole executor of his massive holdings. His grandson, however, was rather feeble-minded, but then, as is the case now, a feeble-minded man with an immense fortune was just as desirable as a smart man with an immense fortune! Several of the colony's most eligible young ladies vied for his attention, and eventually a marriage to a woman of titled lineage was arranged.

Unfortunately, it is said that poor young Tharpe was overwhelmed by the situation, and on his wedding night he became hysterical and practically lost his mind. He was never the same, and although he lived to nearly ninety years old, he never had much to do with the operation of the estates. His sad state plunged the family into a hotly contested battle over his grandfather's "dead-lef", and over the years the various properties fell into disrepair and decline.

Famous For: Good Hope is more than just an estate home; it is, as it probably was in the eighteenth century, a model for elegant country living. The property is now a part of Chris Blackwell's Island Trading Group, and has retained its colonial stature and appeal even through its transformation into a luxurious villa complex with all the modern conveniences.

Must See: Few words actually manage to describe a sunrise at Good Hope with any accuracy. Breathtaking, spectacular and awe-inspiring come to mind, but even those cannot truly express the wonder evoked from the experience. The sunrise is certainly a must-see…

Say Hello To: Many regard David Pinto, master potter, as one of Jamaica's most promising young artists. His work, which has been displayed in the exhibitions of some of the most prestigious galleries around the world, is dynamic and refreshingly inventive. It is reflective of his warm and affable personality. Back in Jamaica after living and working abroad for a number of years, Pinto has established his studio inside one of the former plantation buildings on the Good Hope Estate, where he creates his pieces and occasionally hosts international workshops.

Rock

General History: Once a major shipping port for Trelawny’s thriving banana and sugar industries, Rock was the sister town to Martha Brae in the eighteenth century when that town was the parish capital. Located within the Martha Brae delta, at the point where the river enters the Caribbean Sea, Rock lies on the edge of the Luminous Lagoon, an enthralling body of water that glistens and glows when the microscopic organisms that live on the surface of the water are disturbed.

In the eighteenth century at the Luminous Lagoon there was home a wharf used by small ships carrying goods from larger vessels docked in the harbour. These small ships would carry the bulk of imported goods inland, up the river to Martha Brae and carry sugar and other produce back down the river. Eventually, when Falmouth replaced Martha Brae as the capital, Rock began its decline in importance, and has since become a sleepy fishing village on the outskirts of the increasingly popular Trelawny Beach resort area.

Over the years, continuous deposits of silt washing down the river have made the bay extremely shallow, and today the whole area is no more than eight feet deep at its deepest point. Too shallow to host any but small private luxury craft, Rock today is known mainly as the home of the Glistening Waters Marina and Restaurant, and the lagoon has become a major night-time tourist attraction.

A short distance inland from the lagoon is the Reggae To Wear factory, an authentic world-famous Jamaican resort couture line. Reggae To Wear offers regular tours of their factory, where cloth used in production is hand printed and assembled, so guests can be part of a unique and fashionable Jamaican experience!

Famous For: The Luminous Lagoon is certainly one of the most spectacular naturally occurring phenomena in Jamaica. At night, the water seems to sparkle and glisten when disturbed, as millions of microscopic dinoflagellates called pyridium Bahamene that live on the surface of the water produce an eerie glow, reflecting the outlines of fish and other objects in the water. This lagoon is said to be the largest and most brilliant of only three in the Caribbean, and then one of only a handful on the planet, a small fact that continually attracts and awes visitors and scientists from around the world.

Must See: Reggae To Wear, a internationally acclaimed Jamaican-made resort couture line is produced in Rock. The Reggae To Wear factory, where fabrics are hand printed and garments are assembled daily, is open for tours, and pieces from the line make for exciting one-of-a-kind souvenirs and gifts.

Say Hello To: Say hello to Jerry, who operates a tour of the Luminous Lagoon from the Glistening Waters Marina, is a most interesting character. On his tours, he gives an extensive account of why the water sparkles, and as he boasts to all his customers, "I have never lost a client in this harbour..." Jerry is also working on his singing career, and will, upon request, perform covers of his favourite Bob Marley tunes. Feel free to sing along, even if you don’t know the words!

Sandy Bay

General History: The town of Sandy Bay was created in the immediate post-emancipation period when Baptist Missionary Thomas Burchell purchased land for the creation of a 'free village' for former slaves.

The original Sandy Bay Baptist Church still stands, complete with a plaque on the wall commemorating the creation of the village. Sandy Bay, a few kilometres west of Montego Bay, Jamaica's second city, is surprisingly undeveloped, given its proximity to the large bustling resort town. To explore the undeveloped beauty of the region, contact Chukka Blue, where visitors can be part of a horseback riding tour of the area. The ride involves a beach stop, a picturesque trail by the seaside on the sandy beach the village is named for. Near to the actual village is the Tryall Golf and Beach Club, a luxury resort that has hosted the Johnny Walker World Championship Tournament a number of times.

Famous For: For many years, Lollipop on the Beach has been a necessary stop on the way from Montego Bay to Lucea or Negril. 'Lollipop' is a beach club that converts to the most happening nightlife spot in Hanover on a regular basis, when live bands and other entertainers are brought in to give concerts. Other times, the drinks are cold, the sea is warm and the people are friendly - good enough reasons to spend time there!

Must See: A former 2000-acre sugar and coconut plantation, Tryall Estate is now mostly owned by the Tryall Hotel and Golf Club. The grounds still contain a sugar mill, which is over 170 years old, and a 200-year-old waterwheel, which is operated by a small nearby stream.

Stewart Town

General History: Stewart Town, tucked away in the Dry Harbour Mountain range that spans St. Ann and parts of Trelawny, is a small rural village whose citizens depend almost exclusively on agriculture as their primary source of income.

Although Stewart Town seems like one of the many "Free Villages" that dot the Jamaican countryside, the village predates the post-emancipation period, when the majority of such villages were formed. In 1812, following the outbreak of war between Britain and the newly independent colonies of North America, shipping lines to the West Indian colonies from both the British and the Americans were disrupted. In order to offset the rampant shortages, fifty acres of land high in the mountains were put aside exclusively for the cultivation of provisions for estates and for lumber.

The town was named for the then custos of the parish of Trelawny, James Stewart, who spearheaded its development as a solution for his constituents. Many in the parish, partly out of expediency, welcomed Stewart’s idea, but in reality, the town’s development was supported because by the 1800s the Stewart family name was well respected and trusted within the planter society. Stewart's father (also James) owned one of the most lucrative estates in the parish, and as testament to his wealth and importance built on of the most impressive great houses on his plantation near the coast at Duncans. The ruins of the mansion, Stewart Castle, which was built with cut-stone and shaped like a fortress complete with a lookout tower, still exist today, surrounded by a modern housing development.

Stewart Town has changed somewhat since the early 1800s, but by far the most distinctive development has been the addition of the Westwood Girl's School in 1891. The school, which has attracted young ladies from across the island since inception, is set atop a small hill on the west side of the town, and is considered by many to be Jamaica's premier boarding institution for girls.

Interesting Story: Westwood Girl's School, today heralded as one of Jamaica's most distinguished institutions for young women, was founded in reaction to a clear display of racial prejudice. In the late 1800s, two nieces of the famous abolitionist, Reverend William Knibb, formed a school in Falmouth called the Polly Knibb School For Ladies Of Colour. In 1876, the Knibbs enrolled two black girls, one a daughter of a Jamaican Baptist minister, the other a daughter of a Presbyterian minister.

Ironically, the thought that two black girls be admitted to the School For Ladies Of Colour outraged the parents of the white pupils, but the situation was further exacerbated when the Knibb sisters refused to expel the black girls. In a show of defiance, the white students withdrew their enrolment, causing the school to falter and eventually fail in 1881. Later that year, the Baptist minister and father of one of the girls managed, on a trip to England, to secure funding for the establishment of a new school, and in 1882 the doors were opened to all young ladies, regardless of race or colour.

Must See: In the early afternoon, when classes at Westwood have ended for the day, look for scores of young ladies filing out of the school gates in their traditional uniforms, a navy blue tunic with a white under-blouse and a straw jippa-joppa hat. Over the years, Westwood has kept the style and tradition of the uniform, which is certainly one of the most unique on the island. Today, despite attracting both ridicule and admiration, the girls wear their uniform proudly and neatly, as Westwood continues the tradition of producing “young women of moral and good character”.

Say Hello To: In Stewart Town, there are a number of beautiful Georgian structures. Most however, fall on the campus of Westwood Girl's School. Before entering the school grounds, however, do stop in and ask permission from the headmistress. Ask at the gate for her office. If she is not too busy attending to school matters, she may also share a bit about the history of the school and the buildings on campus.

Links & Sources :

• Wikipedia
• Frommers
• Rough Guides
• Lonely Planet
• Jamaica Touristboard