Ocho Rios

The first town in Jamaica to be developed specifically as a resort, Ocho Rios (usually just called "Ochi") abounds with neon-fronted duty-free stores, fast-food chains, bars, clubs and visitor-oriented restaurants. Local culture takes a back seat to the tourist trappings here, so it's not a good place to get an authentic flavour of Jamaica. It's not the best choice amongst the island's "big three" resorts for the classic Caribbean beach holiday, either – the strip of hotel-lined sand just can't compete with the beaches of Negril and Montego Bay, and the club and bar scenes are less vibrant. Nonetheless, the nightlife is improving, and Ochi compensates for its scenic deficiencies with a certain infectious energy.

Charms of this Region

Dolphin Cove
Cuddle with Sugar, get rubbery, wet kisses from Mitch, or let Cometta and Betta take you for a spin around the cove. These exotic and friendly mammals wait to entertain you.

Craft Markets
Wood carvings, straw hats, t-shirts, jewellery or dyed fabrics…these one-stop shops carry a wide variety of gifts for even the most budget-conscious shopper.

Dunn’s River Falls
Climb 600 feet up Jamaica’s most spectacular and famous waterfall, fringed with lush gardens and spilling onto a small golden sand beach.

Water Sports
Snorkel. Windsurf. Dive. Whatever your pleasure – on or under the water – you can find it in Ocho Rios.

Nine Mile
Make a pilgrimage to the birthplace of the world’s greatest reggae icon; Bob Marley. Visit his shrine, and pay your respects to Jamaica’s favourite son.

Harmony Hall
Renovated historical architecture meets modern fine art in this gallery-cum-restaurant.

Wassi Art
Experience art in the making at the gallery and studios of talented intuitive Jamaican potters and painters.

Horseback Riding
Ride along secret trails and by-ways through quaint rural villages and lush green pastures. Then, if you like, take your horse to cool off with an exhilarating swim in the sea.

Brown's Town

General History: Brown's Town is one of the largest and most important inland towns of St. Ann, primarily because of the high concentration of educational institutions in the area as well as the large Brown's Town Farmer’s Market.

The town is a convenient twenty minute drive from Discovery Bay on the coast, a scenic and tranquil route which winds through the amazingly lush Orange Valley and through the bauxite-rich hills of rural St. Ann.

Just to the north of the town centre is the Minard Estate, the pimento plantation and home of the eccentric and caustic Hamilton Brown, for whom the town is named. The Minard estate now belongs to the Government of Jamaica and is operated as a cattle research and development station through the Agricultural Development Corporation. The two-thousand acre estate is home to approximately one thousand head of cattle, and is the primary breeding station for the Jamaica Brahmin cattle variety, although the estate also maintains herds of lineage mapped Jamaica Red Poll and Jamaica Black cattle.

In the nineteenth century, Hamilton Brown owned the twin estates of Minard and Huntley, and because of his wealth and clout in the area, was instrumental in local politics. In the nineteenth century, he led a group called the Colonial Church Union, a coalition of Anglican congregants who would routinely persecute non-conformist missionaries and their followers by burning churches and free villages. For his efforts, Brown was honoured with a monument in the Anglican churchyard. Ironically, the main thorn in the side of the Colonial Church Union then, Dr. James Johnson's Jamaica Evangelistic Mission (known popularly as the Tabernacle Church), is today one of the institutions that residents are most proud of. Brown's Town is heralded as the birthplace of this movement, an offshoot of the Baptist Church, which today is one of the largest groups of churches in the island. In addition to the Tabernacle Church, Brown's Town boasts twenty-eight other Christian church denominations within the town limits.

Only the number of schools rivals the number of churches; in the town itself there are six of Jamaica's premier educational institutions, creating a Mecca for students from Jamaica's north coast and rural interior. Brown's Town is also an important trading centre for local farmers who live in the surrounding Dry Harbour Mountains. Norman Market, one of the oldest in the island, was famous for the bells atop the steeple, which would ring on major holidays, echoing through the mountains and surrounding towns. Today, the market is in transition, having outgrown its original location, but it still is the largest and most prosperous in the area, attracting sellers from as far away as St. Elizabeth.

Interesting Story: The district of Stand Fast, just outside Brown's Town got its uncommon and telling name in honour of the tenacity and resolve of its residents. During one of the last face-offs with the Colonial Church Union, the Union militia was on a rampage, intent on destroying anything missionaries in St. Ann had built. In the midst of the confrontation, the villagers received word from the Brown's Town missionaries that their resistance was paying off and they should "stand fast and defend themselves" when the Union militia came. The people of the district barricaded themselves in anticipation of an attack, which never came to fruition. The actions of the Colonial Church Union were brought to a standstill by a coalition of missionaries, but in the process of celebrating their successes, other members of the coalition neglected to send word to the residents, who eventually had to courier a message asking if the village still needed to "stand fast".

Famous For: Some of Jamaica's most respected educational institutions are located in and around Brown's Town. St. Hilda's High School for Girls and York Castle High School in particular have longstanding reputations and alma mater lists which include some of the most prominent names in Jamaican society. One of the newer institutions, the Brown's Town Community College, in just a few years has managed to make a name for itself with its rigorous and effective skills training and university preparatory programmes.

Must See: This area of St. Ann was, in the nineteenth century home to many sugar and cattle estates and plantations, producing sugar, pimento and other crops. Today the legacy of the colonial period remains, with many elegant homes scattered over the rolling hills and valleys around Brown's Town. Many are privately owned, but most owners are proud of their properties and sometimes allow viewings if politely asked. Of note is the Minard estate, now a cattle-breeding estate with the New Hope Great House and the ruins of the Minard Great House.

Say Hello To: Do call the Jamaica Cultural Development Commission's office to inquire if Ms. Norma Walters will speak with you. Although she is an extremely busy woman, she is a former teacher and an excellent resource for information on Brown's Town, St. Ann and Jamaican culture in general. Ms Walters is well connected and respected in and around Brown's Town, and can direct you to scenic routes and interesting places in and around the area.

Cave Valley

General History: Cave Valley, so called because of its proximity to the large system of interconnecting limestone caves that stretch through the north and west of the country, is located on the banks of the Cave River.

The river begins underground, appearing and disappearing as it meanders from the interior, finally feeding into one of the larger rivers that flow to the sea. Although the river is small, it is a dangerous one, and from time to time, when heavy rainfall saturates the underground sinkholes and channels, the water backs up and floods the village and surrounding areas. It is the same river, however, which causes rampant and widespread destruction, that is also the reason the valley is so remarkably fertile.

The village falls within an old historic district, not far away from the Vera Ma Hollis Savannah, one of the major bases of activity for the first maroons – those freed slaves of the Spanish colonial era that took to the hills to wage guerrilla warfare against the English. Years later, the valley was still a maroon stronghold, and so during the Maroon Wars, the English erected a barracks on the banks of the river from whence they launched their attacks. The ruins of the Cave Valley Regiment quarters are still visible today. Also just outside the village centre is a chimney, the remains of a mill that dates to 1872. The chimney is as impressive as it is amusing, seemingly to rise out of nowhere, and reaching at least thirty feet into the air.

Until recently, Cave Valley was one of the most important tobacco producing regions in Jamaica. In the early days of English colonialism, tobacco was one of Jamaica's primary agricultural products, that is, before the North American colonies demanded from the colonial government a monopoly on the cultivation of the plant. When sugar replaced tobacco in importance economically, the island's tobacco regions diminished, leaving areas of major importance like Cave Valley producing cigars and cigarettes from the fine tobacco that made the Caribbean famous.

Over time, the cultivation of tobacco has declined, and its stead, coffee cultivation has taken over. The Baronhall Estate today is the largest working plantation in the community, employing most of its workers from the valley communities. Because of its location, (the village is on the major route from the south-central parishes to the north but very far from any major town) the market at Cave Valley never gained distinction by virtue of its size or variety of produce. Instead, Cave Valley market is best know for the weekly livestock auctions held there.

Famous For: The reputation of the livestock market at Cave Valley has far exceeded its size; in the days when beasts of burden such as donkeys, mules and horses were the primary means of transportation, the market flourished and gained notoriety as the best place to buy such animals. Despite the fact that as animals are used less and less nowadays, the Cave Valley market still remains a major meeting place for animal traders, although its reputation has changed slightly. Now, many know Cave Valley as the place where unscrupulous livestock traders swindle unknowing buyers, as animals that seem in good health are said to collapse shortly after the transaction is complete. The lesson, caveat emptor!

Must See: Outside the village there are two interesting natural features, the "Noisy Water" River Cave and "Rat Bat Hole". Noisy Water River is actually a section of the Cave River that emerges from underground out of the wide mouth of a cave and trickles over limestone rocks before it disappears again. Rat Bat Hole, as the name suggests, is the surface opening of a cave system filled with herbivorous bats that extends deep underground for several miles. Noisy Water River is approximately one mile into the lands of Brenton Bertram, and Rat Bat Hole is approximately one mile in the opposite direction. Both the river and the cave are worth the hike along the steep hillsides dotted with grazing cattle and teeming with various medicinal plants used by the residents of the community of Norwood.

Say Hello To: In the centre of town, Mr. Bobby Simms owns and operates one of only four restaurants in town, which also doubles as the local hardware store and the local nightclub. The Prestige Restaurant, Hardware and Nightclub has a warm homey feel, and usually Bob is sitting behind the bar ready to discuss just about anything from current events to the state of the roads.

Claremont

General History: The district of Claremont was first called "Finger Post" until it was renamed in honor of the first house built there 'Clermont House'. The countryside around the town has for centuries been home to the wealthy landed gentry, and even today is dotted with elegant homes and estates houses.

The wealth associated with the area can be seen in the architecture and plan of the town; the shops of Claremont high street exhibit remarkable architectural detail as well as very refined finishing.

Must See: The special allure of Claremont is not to be found in the town itself, but rather around the town, in the rolling hills, estates and lush meadows. There are many interesting and worthwhile driving routes and detours with beautiful homes set against breathtaking views.

Discovery Bay

General History: Unmistakably one of the most picturesque natural harbours in the Caribbean, Discovery Bay was re-named in 1947 to commemorate the place where it was once thought that Christopher Columbus first set foot on Jamaican soil.

Recently historians have come to agree that Columbus initially landed at Rio Bueno, six miles to the west of Discovery Bay, a theory further supported by the fact that Columbus called the bay 'Puerto Seco' or 'dry harbour' in reference to the lack of a fresh water supply there. Nevertheless, Discovery Bay is still home to Columbus Park, an open-air museum facility with various Columbian and colonial artefacts on display. Also of note on the coast are the remains of the original Quadrant Wharf which date to the 1700s but which today are attached to a number of small local restaurants and shops.

Since Columbus, many others have 'discovered' the beauty of Discovery Bay, and over the years a small town has developed around the bay area. On one side of the bay lies the Kaiser Bauxite Company's wharf and the Columbus Park, which overlooks the azure cove from the western end. On the other side are various private homes, resorts and the family-oriented Puerto Seco beach whose pristine white sand and relaxing appeal can only be described as breathtaking.

Interesting Story: All the artefacts on display at Columbus Park in Discovery Bay were recovered by the Kaiser Bauxite Company in the process of excavating in and around the Discovery Bay / St. Ann area. These artefacts include a section of a sugar estate aqueduct, eighteenth century cannons; sugar boiling coppers and a Lime mill. Interestingly enough, there are very few artefacts from the time of Spanish occupation in the park; rather, most of the artefacts on display date to the eighteenth century when sugar was king and the British controlled Jamaica.

Famous For: Once, it was thought that Discovery Bay was the place that Columbus first landed in Jamaica, and that was the town's claim to fame. Today, historians have proven otherwise, but Discovery Bay can now hold its own as a charming town resting on the edge of an exquisite notch of the Jamaican coastline.

Must See: An afternoon at Puerto Seco is certainly in order for any visit to Discovery Bay. The beach is well developed, with a small jetty, a playground with rides for children of all ages, a family restaurant and a bar for adults. The water is brilliant turquoise and shallow for about twenty feet out to sea, but do carry or rent snorkelling equipment for a glimpse at another side of Jamaica.

Faith's Pen

General History: Jamaica's favourite travel halt is marked by a humble strip of vendors along the road which winds down Mount Diablo and into St Ann. Located in the midst of bauxite-rich country, Faith's Pen appears where the climb up "the devil's mountain" levels off and marks the beginning of the descent to the north coast.

The short strip of neat stalls, which is set against a backdrop of brilliant red earth and bright green mountains, exudes vitality with loud reggae music pulsating throughout and the smell of roast breadfruit and jerk smoke wafting through the air. At Faith's Pen, one can buy roast corn, steamed fish, cow cod soup, mannish water, roots wine, honey and many other delectable Jamaican foods.

Driving by, it is almost impossible to pass without stopping to sample some of the hearty treats that are cooked there on the spot. Over the years, each vendor has created his/her own niche, and nearly all have their faithful clientele. The oldest and most popular spots are easy to identify; they are the ones with throngs of people waiting patiently to be served. In short, Faith's Pen is probably the best place on the island to sample traditional Jamaican food at its best, and the range and choice, coupled with the welcoming smiles of vendors, reminds one of just how special this island is.

Interesting Story: The location of Faith's Pen today is a few miles from the original congregation of shacks along the road, moved in the 1990s partly because of its precarious, traffic hazard location and partly to make use of land reclaimed from bauxite mining.

Famous For: Jamaican Food! Cow cod soup, mannish water, roast salt fish, roast corn, roast yam…and an unending list of other delicacies.

Must See: Miss Cherry (of Cherry's One Stop) has been selling at Faith's Pen for as long as anyone can remember. She is almost always there, excepting of course, the days she goes down to the Linstead Market to get fresh produce for her stall. But don’t just take our word for it; with over fifteen stalls to choose from, you can make a meal by getting each part from a different vendor. The next best way to go about trying it all is to stop more than once; although even veterans of the stop will tell you that even after many years they still haven’t tried everything available!

Moneague

General History: An old elegant inland town, Moneague once was one of the largest and most important towns in St. Ann because of its convenient location along the main north to south highway.

Travelers doing the three day journey would find it a pleasant stop because the climate in Moneague was significantly milder than in Kingston and Spanish Town, and at one point the town boasted many hotels, some said to be ‘the most charming in the island.’ The name Moneague is said to be a corruption of the Spanish ‘managua’ after an underground lake in the area.

Interesting Story: Affectionately called “Swamp” by residents of Moneague, the Moneague Lake is a rather interesting phenomenon. Local legends maintain that the lake appears only once every hundred years, when it rises to swallow a valley to the north east of the town and tells of prosperity for the next few years to come. The truth is, the lake appears after any long protracted period of heavy rains, when the normal channels of drainage are blocked when both underground water backs up and settles and the excess surface water, having nowhere to flow away saturate the land. As a result of changes to the land topography due to bauxite mining, the lake has disappeared only once in the past thirty years, and now is a rather permanent part of the landscape in Moneague.

Famous For: The combination of the natural landscape and the architecture of buildings in and around the town of Moneague is perhaps the town’s most attractive attribute. In colonial days, Moneague was a town for the landed gentry, who built some of the most beautiful homes against the startlingly beautiful landscape. Many of these homes still exist today; the old Moneague Tavern (now Café Aubergine), the old Moneague Hotel (now the Moneague Community College), and the Lake House (now a private residence but still visible from the road) being some prime examples of these remarkable structures.

Must See: Formerly known as the Moneague Tavern, today’s Café Aubergine, a small restaurant with a colorful history, is still a landmark along the highway. In the old days the tavern marked the midway point in a long journey between the north and south coasts, but today, with new and improved road systems, the journey is shorter but still not complete with a stop there.

Say Hello To: Beside the Moneague Lake there is a sign advertising “Silver Lake Camp” where patrons can access “Cabins, Boats, Live Music and Fun.” The camp for the most part is no longer in operation, but its owner, Mr. Earl Nunes, has lived beside the lake for more than 30 years and would be pleased to chat about Moneague, the lake and fishing techniques. Mr. Nunes also operates a one-man band (hence the Live Music) and may even treat you to an informal mini-concert.

Nine Mile

General History: Along the road to Philadelphia and nine miles from Alexandria is Nine Mile, a rural community with few citizens and fewer amenities. Embedded in a hill made of solid rock and blood-red bauxite rich earth, Nine Mile is the birthplace of Reggae superstar Bob Marley and the site of the Bob Marley Mausoleum.

A few metres away from the village centre stands the mausoleum and mini-museum, at the top of the famous hill which Marley climbed daily to carry water to his house. At the mausoleum, located beside Marley's childhood home, the late Jamaican cultural icon lies in a marble tomb surrounded by gifts and memorabilia. Many fans and followers revere the tomb as a sacred place, and although in the spirit of Marley's teachings no person is denied access to the site, guests are asked to remove their shoes before entering.

Nine Mile is also the childhood home of Bunny 'Wailer' Livingston, who is, along with Peter Tosh one of the three original Wailers that shared the early part of Marley's initial climb to international fame. The hamlet is generally a rural, sleepy little Jamaican village where most of the residents farm for a living, but once a year, around February 6, Bob Marley's birthday, the village plays host to hundreds of fans who come to enjoy a spectacular yet intimate concert and to pay their respects to the most popular Jamaican entertainer to date.

At the right time of year, a visit to the Bob Marley Mausoleum can be a once-in-a-lifetime experience and a totally fulfilling lesson in Jamaican history and culture, for often, some of the most important figures in reggae music can be found there, paying their respects and reasoning with visitors. The house of Cedella Booker, Bob's mother, for instance, is also located on the compound and just a few chains away is the former home of Bunny Wailer. The easiest way to get to Nine Mile is to drive along the hilly byways of St. Ann, through the town of Claremont, a quiet and picturesque town with interesting architecture and a beautiful old church.

Interesting Story: Many of Bob Marley's most famous lyrics were conceived here; visitors are encouraged to sit under these same trees and perhaps conceive their own tunes.

Famous For: Bob Marley, the village's most famous son, born here on February 6, 1945. Nine Mile today houses the childhood homes of Bob Marley and Livingston "Bunny" Wailer, in addition to the Bob Marley Mausoleum.

Must See: Pay your respects to one of the most important figures in modern music; stop by the Chapel at the mausoleum, which is decorated with stained glass in the Rasta colours of red, green and gold. Remember to remove shoes before entering and to sign the visitor’s log when leaving!

Say Hello To: Cedella Booker, fondly called "Mother B", is Bob Marley's mother and lives in a modest house nearby. Call ahead to see if she is in town, she is a busy woman even at her age! If Mother B is not at home, ask around for Uncle Lloyd, Bob's uncle, who will treat you to interesting anecdotes of Bob Marley's childhood. Another interesting character is Ras Paul, the gatekeeper and I-tal chef who will treat visitors to a bottle of his famous "Roots Wine" for a small contribution.

Ocho Rios

General History: Ocho Rios is a favourite vacation destination for visitors and locals alike. What was once a small, rural fishing village is today one of the major centres of Jamaica’s tourism. The English translation of the name Ocho Rios is eight rivers, but the name is actually a corruption of the Spanish words, "las chorreras", or " cascades".

As such, while visitors sometimes feel misled expecting to see eight rivers running through town, their minor disappointment is more than offset by the fact there are more than eleven rivers and more than twenty waterfalls in the area, most of them located along the north coast road on the western end of the town.

The largest and most famous of the waterfalls is Dunn's River Falls, where adventurous spirits can climb up over 600 feet of thundering cascades. Other remarkable cataracts can be found at the Enchanted Gardens, the Ruins Restaurant, Llandovery, Laughing Waters, and at the mouth of the White River.

Despite the fact that the town is home to Jamaica's largest hotel and to over 30 smaller hotels, resorts and private villas, “Ochi”, as Jamaicans fondly call it, is still in many ways a small town. Most businesses and hotels are located along Main Street, the major road through town running parallel to the beach. Main Street has a distinctive Jamaican quality and feel to it; usually it is bustling and full of activity with shoppers, crafts people, children, taxis and reggae music setting the pace and tone of the town's pleasantly cheerful and relaxed vibe.

Ocho Rios is also a huge shopping mecca; partly because of the pier, where the major cruise ship lines call. The town hosts two major shopping centres: the Taj Mahal and the Island Centre, both of which offer fabulous duty free shops with good bargains on normally expensive items. There’s also the famous Ocho Rios Craft Park, where the sign advertises "free gift for all customers". The Park is a great place to obtain Jamaican curios and mementos of all types, get your hair braided, or just hang out with ordinary Jamaicans.

At the night, Ocho Rios is abuzz with activity –there are lots options of things to do and places to go. Usually, the Little Pub has a musical revue or a theatrical production running, Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville in Island Village is always crazy with outrageous theme parties and tropical drinks, and on most nights James Street pulsates with reggae pouring out of the numerous local nightclubs and bars.

More than anything else, Ocho Rios is an exceptional family resort area and, being centrally located, is the ideal base from which to explore Jamaica's north coast.

Interesting Story: Ocho Rios was identified and developed as a tourist destination after World War II when Clement Atlee, Prime Minister of Britain began to confiscate the wealth of the aristocracy. The legislation instigated an enormous capital flight from Britain, and Ocho Rios quickly became the holiday home for the wealthiest and most famous Britons.

Famous For: “Ochee” has the largest number of waterfalls per square mile than any other piece of coastal real estate; including Dunn's River Falls with magnificent cascades over 600 feet high!

Must See: The descent to the coast from inland St. Ann along the A3 highway is marked by an almost mystical gorge covered by a canopy of foliage that blocks almost all sunlight. Fern Gully; 3-mile long roadway lined with hundreds of species of fern, is the largest fern arboretum in the world. Set in a breathtakingly beautiful canyon that is a nature lover’s paradise, the highway winds itself along the course of an old riverbed until a glimpse of the ocean indicates your arrival in Ocho Rios.

Oracabessa

General History: Oracabessa is one of the fastest growing resort areas in Jamaica, energized by heavy investment from long-time resident Chris Blackwell's Island Outpost Trading Company. Its towering cliffs, shining in the golden sunlight, may be a clue to origins of the town’s name, which is said to derive from the Spanish words oro (gold) and cabeza (head).

The town is renowned as the private retreat of two of the twentieth century’s most prolific authors and playwrights: Ian Fleming, James Bond creator and writer, and Sir Noel Coward. In addition, it is also famous for James Bond Beach, named for the fictional character after one of the Bond movies was filmed in Oracabessa, and now a major entertainment venue for local events.

The main street in Oracabessa is a pleasant and graceful promenade with a number of well-maintained buildings in the early twentieth century Jamaican vernacular tradition. On the outskirts of the town are other note worthy buildings, most of which are owned by Island Outpost, including Goldeneye, Fleming's tropical retreat, and Blue Harbour, the three-villa seaside home of Noel Coward. Firefly, the primary vacation home of Noel Coward is leased by Island, who restored and refurbished the house as a museum and now oversees its operation.

The community of Oracabessa is heavily dependent on fishing for much of its income, and there are a number of fishing beaches dotted around the small harbour. In the centre of the harbour channel is a small island called Santa Maria that has good snorkelling potential, used mainly by fishermen, but with development plans in the works for a tourist attraction.

Interesting Story: Ian Fleming, former British Intelligence Officer, famous author and creator of the James Bond series, fell in love with Jamaica and was inspired to write all his ten novels here. It is said, Fleming decided to live in Jamaica when he came to the island and watched a Jamaican girl swimming nude in the bay below Goldeneye, his famous house.

Famous For: Scenes from the classic James Bond movie "Goldfinger", which featured a young and stunning Ursala Andress, were filmed at James Bond Beach.

Must See: Firefly, former home of artist, actor and playwright Noel Coward, is a small house that sits on a hill above the town. The house is now a museum with guided tours, but for thirty years it was Coward's refuge, and the house has been preserved exactly as it was at the time of his death. Firefly is a model of elegance in simplicity; the cottage has living space and amenities for just one person but it sits on eight acres of land with a magnificent view of the harbour below. Sir Noel is buried here, and in his memory a statue has been erected in his favourite spot, a bench facing the coast, looking out into the royal blue Caribbean.

Say Hello To: Stop in at Dor's Fish Pot for excellent seafood dishes and a mellow seaside atmosphere. Your experience will be completely altered if Dor’s stop happens to coincide with yours. Dor is a vociferous woman with strong opinions and a warm heart, and spending time with her and her delectable dishes amounts to a rare treat.

Port Maria

General History: Not many people know that Port Maria, the “Puerto Santa Maria” of the Spanish, was the second town to be established in Jamaica by the colonizing Spaniards. Formerly a bustling seaport under both Spanish and English rule, the town today reflects little of its former prosperity or importance.

Except for a handful of buildings, not much remains of the colonial era architecture. The town is set in the centre of a deep inlet of the northern coastline with a small island just offshore, and the bay is certainly one of the most picturesque in Jamaica.

As capital of the parish of St Mary; Port Maria is home to the St Mary Courthouse, an old elegant building subtly dominating the town’s waterfront. In front of the courthouse is a monument to Tacky, a freedom fighter of the 18th century. In 1760 Tacky, an African slave of Coromantee descent assembled a guerrilla army to attack their British enslavers and seize control of the land. The revolt started on the nearby Frontier plantation, but spread quickly after Tacky and his followers raided the munitions store in Port Maria.

Tacky’s Revolt was one of the most pivotal slave uprisings in Jamaican history, because although outnumbered and ill equipped, Tacky’s followers kept the British at bay for more than a month before the rebellion could be subdued. Following the rebellion, many of the slaves that managed to evade the British banded together and fled to the hills to join the maroons, but as many as 300 slaves were executed for their participation. Of interest also is the St Mary parish church, the small English-style chapel on the water’s edge, west of the town.

Interesting Story: Port Maria, and indeed the entire parish of St. Mary have a very old and deep-seated tradition of protest. From as early as 1655, African slaves set free by the fleeing Spanish took to the hills, forming Maroon communities and carrying out the occasional attack on British estates and towns. In 1760, Tacky, the notorious rebel slave, lead a revolt against slave owners that lasted over a month before British authorities could suppress the fighting. Centuries later, in a 1938 riot that started in Islington, a small farming community near to Port Maria, four men died as a result of clashes with local police. The spirit of protest lives on, although in recent times not much has been able to incite the people here to mass violence.

Famous For: Tacky's War, in 1760 is still memorialised in the cultural capital of the country. A popular poem relaying the events of the Easter Rebellion is taught to school children all over the island to pay homage to Jamaica's rich history of resistance to oppression.

Must See: The St. Mary Parish Church, built in 1861 of limestone blocks on the edge of the bay, is one of the most picturesque structures anywhere on the island. The modest chapel is set against the dazzling turquoise harbour, framed by tall palm trees whose leaves rustle gently in the warm sea breezes.

Rio Bueno

General History: Rio Bueno, a small seaside village on the border between the parishes of St Ann and Trelawny, owes its importance, history and livelihood to the magnificent Rio Bueno harbour. The Rio Bueno harbour is the deepest in Jamaica, and that feature is probably one of the reasons that impelled Christopher Columbus, on his first visit to Jamaica, to drop anchor there.

Rio Bueno, in fact, not Discovery Bay, was the first place that the Europeans landed in Jamaica, welcomed to land by the ease of entry into the harbour as well as the availability of fresh water from the river, which empties directly into the harbour. The river itself is a curious feature. Its source lies in the limestone sinks of the Cockpit Country, but the river itself appears and disappears at will, along its course collecting many names such as the Quashie River, the Dornoch River and the Cave River, but finally entering the Caribbean Sea as the Rio Bueno, the original name bestowed by the Spanish.

Since the initial visit by Columbus and his crews, Rio Bueno fluctuated has between a very important town and a quiet fishing village. The evidence of centuries of history abounds at Rio Bueno; just outside the village, on a hill overlooking the harbour is the original location of Calabar Theological College, the first school to train Jamaican preachers. The college has since been relocated to Kingston, but there still remains a well-maintained 150-year-old Baptist church.

Home to the wharf for the deepest harbour in the island on one side and the Queen’s Highway on the other, the village sprung up during the early days of English colonialism as a way stop for both maritime and overland visitors. The village of Rio Bueno has traditionally housed highly acclaimed taverns, guesthouses and inns. In fact, during one of its ‘glory periods’ the Duke of Wellington Inn at Rio Bueno was said to be the best lodging house in the north of Jamaica! By the late 1800s the town was almost deserted, a shadow of its former self.

In recent times the village has gone through two such about-turns – having been resurrected by the construction of a bauxite-shipping wharf in the mid-1900s. Since then, smaller influences have changed the town’s fate; the appearance and disappearance of a certain jerk pork specialist in the 1980s, for instance, changed the village’s Friday night reputation for a number of years. Despite all, the village remains a picturesque gem steeped in history, with its old fort, warehouses and churches set against the water’s edge with the green hills of Trelawny as its backdrop.

Interesting Story: Rio Bueno boasts many churches, two of which are of great historical importance to both Jamaica and the area. Baptist missionaries who broke away from the Church of England, then the official church of Jamaica, originally built the Rio Bueno Baptist church in 1829. The Rio Bueno Baptist church was, for a short while, the major place of worship and education for converted blacks living in the area. The humble meeting hall lasted only three short years before members of the Colonial Church Union, a band of vigilante white planters, merchants and estate workers intent on displacing the support base of the non-conformist missionaries, burnt it to the ground.

Ironically, St Mark’s, the Rio Bueno Anglican church, one of the most beautiful structures on the coast, was hurriedly consecrated in 1833 on petition from the people of the then booming town, probably as a display of English colonial supremacy. The Baptists, however, were not to be underestimated, and by 1834 a new Baptist chapel, the first of those destroyed by the Union to be re-opened, was consecrated. The new church was twice the size of the original one, surely to the horror of the Colonial Church Union and the planters of Trelawny!

With the new, larger church, the Baptist missionaries expanded their operations, and soon founded the Calabar College in 1843, the first institution in Jamaica to offer formal instruction to theological students of colour. Both churches exist in harmony today, each relishing its colourful and longstanding history, both celebrating worship on Sunday mornings with their discrete congregations.

Famous For: The Rio Bueno Harbour is spectacular from all angles, but especially so from on top of the hills that border the town. The various shades of blue are alluring, and set against the background of the endless sky, the portrait is simply breathtaking.

Must See: Rio Bueno has long been a centre for the arts on the north coast, and the village has been graced with the presence of many renowned painters, poets and musicians such as Joseph Kidd in the 1800s, and more recently, Alex Haley and James Morrison. Today the artistic tradition in Rio Bueno is supported mainly by Joe James, a world acclaimed visual artist and sculptor who operates Gallery Joe James and the adjoining Rio Bueno Hotel. Most of the gallery is housed in the former Harbour Master's Quarters, creating a historic atmosphere amidst contemporary art.

Say Hello To: Joe James, proprietor and operator of the Rio Bueno Hotel and Gallery, is an extraordinary character. Mr. James has been resident in Rio Bueno for over 35 years, and has witnessed many changes to the village and surrounding areas. Adjoining the Gallery is his studio, and visitors are encouraged to stop in to create, chat, or just experience…

Rio Nuevo

General History: The Rio Nuevo, a small river that trickles down from the hills of the parish of St Mary, lends its name to the small village on the coastline where the river enters the sea. Few people realize how important this small, quiet 'suburb' of the large resort town of Ocho Rios is to Jamaica's history.

In the seventeenth century, while European nations fought over the control of various areas in the New World, the English wrestled the island of Jamaica from the Spanish, then the dominant colonial power in the region. At Rio Nuevo in 1658, the most definitive battle between the English and the Spanish over control of Jamaica took place and, as a result, after a mere 150 years of Spanish rule, the British were able to capture the island. Today, Jamaicans are the only people in the Greater Antilles that speak English as a first language.

Rio Nuevo lies along the north coast highway, marked by a few small signs erected by the Jamaica National Heritage Trust identifying the battle site. On the actual battlefield site there is a monument to all the Jamaicans, both of African and Spanish descent that fought the invading British valiantly albeit unsuccessfully. Today it is hard to imagine the carnage and bloodshed that brought the small community to the public fore, since the site is now a grassy park dotted with shady trees and benches where visitors may sit and gaze at the horizon.

Interesting Story: One of the most definitive moments in the island's history took place here, at the mouth of the Rio Nuevo on the north coast. The Battle of Rio Nuevo was the last major battle fought by the Spanish in a final-hour attempt to recapture the island from the English in 1658.

The Spanish, led by a brave and determined Christobal Ysassi had, since the English first landed in 1655, maintained a consistent and harassing guerrilla war from the hills aided by bands of freed African slaves. In 1657, encouraged by the slow responses of the English to previous small skirmishes, the Spanish attempted to recapture the island from the north, setting up a small fort at Rio Nuevo and a camp near Ocho Rios with military support and supplies from nearby Cuba.

The Spanish initiative was thwarted twice, once at the base of Dunn's River Falls, where sensitive Spanish battle information was leaked to the English, and then again at Rio Nuevo. While the defeat at Dunn's River only hampered progress, the defeat of the troops at Rio Nuevo and the destruction of the fort dealt a much more serious blow to the Spanish campaign, both to the morale of the troops and the strength of the army. Over two days of heavy fighting, the Spanish lost more than 300 troops to an onslaught by the English Navy, and the few survivors of the battle fled to the hills of the island's interior. Rio Nuevo was the last major campaign of the Spanish, and although Ysassi and a band of loyal yet war-weary soldiers and freed slaves maintained a guerrilla war for two more years, after the defeat on the river's west bank, the Spanish had no realistic hope of ever colonizing the island again.

Famous For: One of the best scuba-diving sites off Jamaica's coast appears just offshore from Jamaica Beach, to the west of Rio Nuevo. The reef, called the Rio Nuevo wall, is a 25-foot dive, and supports barracudas, turtles, parrotfish and other tropical marine life in its mountainous coral formations.

Must See: Ten minutes south of the village of Rio Nuevo, on a road canopied by lush vines and sturdy, old trees, the Rio Nuevo trickles down through the district of Retreat. Crossing the river from Retreat into Bottom Retreat is no mean feat, although the quaint and picturesque swinging bridge certainly makes it a beautiful endeavour. For many years before the construction of the new Bailey bridge, the community made use of a wooden bridge hung by ropes made of vines. The wooden bridge is still there, but few people use it these days.

The community of Retreat is largely agricultural and reserved, a small village where everyone has known everyone else's family for generations, and where neighbours are quick to the rescue of each other in hard times. The village square – in fact the whole district – is made of the stuff that turns into stunning postcards, a calming and picturesque corner of the true heart of Jamaica. Retreat is home to an interesting church, the Holy Trinity chapel, built in the shape of a cross, on a small hill above the river. The river, which runs through the district, is an essential part of community life. On just about any day, there is a dash of activity by the riverbanks; children splash and play in the cold spring water, while adults wash clothes and cars.

A short visit to Retreat is certainly in order if you happen to be in the area. By the river, the smooth, rounded stones are large and comfortable enough to accommodate a picnic, allow you to contemplate life, or make new friends.

Runaway Bay

General History: Runaway Bay is certainly one of the most scenic areas in Jamaica, which is probably why it was the first place in Jamaica to be developed almost completely as a resort area.

Since the early 1960s, when the old Cardiff Hall Estate was converted to a combination of luxury hotels, golf courses and private villas, the town has developed its own character and persona as an elegant yet lively getaway for those who truly need to relax, enjoy a bit of luxury and rejuvenate themselves completely.

Indeed, much of the beauty of Runaway Bay lies in the fact that while the town itself is not a vibrant bustling centre, it is conveniently located within easy reach of Ocho Rios in the east, Montego Bay in the west, and with Brown's Town inland to the south. Also as well as having some of the most spectacular beaches in the Caribbean, Runaway Bay is endowed with captivating natural features such as the Pear Tree River and the Green Grotto Caves.

Over the years, there has been much debate about the name of this small coastal town. Some believe it got the name as the fleeing point of the last batch of Spanish soldiers retreating from English troops under the directive of Governor Ysassi in the 1600s. Others argue that it once was the point of departure of African slaves from inland sugar plantations who ran away to Cuba. Whichever story is true, according to one resident, "nobody nah try (to) run ‘way” from Runaway Bay today; in fact, in the hills outside the resort town, many foreigners have run away from their former selves and made Jamaica home!

Famous For: Do stop by the Green Grotto Caves, the largest and most accessible caves on the island. The two caves open to the public are the Runaway Cave and the Green Grotto Cave, both estimated to be approximately half-million years old. Along with stalagmites and stalactites, there is a small and fascinating underground lake in the innermost cavern. The caves belong to a series of interconnected passageways and chambers that spread far beneath the Dry Harbour Mountains to the south. It is said that slaves used the caves as an escape route, but it is unclear whether these slaves were running to the coast in order to leave the country, or whether they were running to the mountainous interior to join bands of maroons in the mountains. Tours of the caves in which your guide identifies interesting and sometimes amusing rock formations, last about 45 minutes and are provided at a small cost.

In addition to the caves, some of the best beaches in the Caribbean can be found in Runaway Bay, protected by a large tropical coral reef. Accordingly, the resort area is one of the most ideal for water sports, scuba-diving, all outdoor sports and of course, sunbathing.

Must See: Located on a hill overlooking the bay is the Runaway Bay HEART Hotel and Training Institute. HEART, the Human Employment and Resource Training Trust is a government-run programme that aims to develop practical and vocational skills among young Jamaicans. The Runaway Bay HEART Hotel employs predominantly hospitality industry trainees, and needless to say, since it began operating has maintained a reputation for excellence in service, since trainees are graded on guest satisfaction. At the very least, a visit to the Cardiff Hall Restaurant (also on the hotel property and run by trainees) is a worthwhile experience, as the culinary institute usually manages to pull a "clean sweep" of medal positions in the annual JCDC Culinary Arts Competition. Upon leaving the institute, apart from being pleasantly satisfied, guests often feel the warmth and well being of knowing that their patronage has helped a young Jamaican to master essential skills for entry into the working world.

St. Anns Bay

General History: Originally called Santa Gloria by Christopher Columbus, St Ann's Bay is at once the capital of the similarly named "Garden Parish", home to the island's first city, and birthplace of Marcus Mosiah Garvey – Jamaican National Hero and pioneer in Black Nationalism and Pan-Africanism.

St Ann's Bay displays many old historic buildings and monuments set between the brilliant green mountains and the royal blue Caribbean Sea.

The historic St Ann's Bay courthouse (built in 1860) and fort (built in 1750) have both witnessed many years of hardship, conflict and brutality and now stand as testimony to the understated strength and character of this town. Also of note are the statues of Marcus Garvey and Christopher Columbus, each standing at opposite ends of the town.

As parish capital, the town attracts visitors from all over the mostly rural inland areas. As a result St Ann's Bay looks and feels like ol’ time Jamaica, where the entire town, even the small side lanes, radiates a cosmopolitan blend of people-on-official-business, people-on-personal-business and people with not much else to do but socialize, all dressed accordingly.

On most days, this north coast hub moves gently to a rhythm that ebbs and flows in sync with the ocean visible from almost any point in the town. Some evenings and most weekends, the fields of the St Ann Polo Club and the Drax Hall Football Club come alive with hotly contested polo and club-league football respectively. By night, St Ann’s Bay becomes a gathering place for St. Ann locals, who cheerfully and regularly patronize their favourite nightspots, away from the tourist-oriented selections in Ocho Rios. The result of a multiplicity of purposes and personalities, St Ann’s Bay is a pleasantly paced modern centre with a fascinating past.

Interesting Story: Local legend maintains that there is a flammable body of water near the Police Station. Apparently, this spring will can be lit and will burn continuously until extinguished by waters from the same spring. The elusive spring is also said to have remarkable healing properties for those who find it. Please note: this story may be at best wild conjecture, but investigating its validity may offer the opportunity to make new friends!

Famous For: Jamaica’s first National Hero, Marcus Garvey was born in St. Ann's Bay. The charismatic and influential Black activist and organizer spent his youth here before moving to Kingston, where he started his political life. His messages of Black solidarity and self-determination paved the way for many Black Pan-Africanist leaders around the world, while in Jamaica his messages defined the philosophy of the Rastafari movement. A son of a well-respected local citizen, Garvey embodied the spirit of the Jamaican working classes and eloquently represented the interests of people from the entire African Diaspora by organizing the United Negro Improvement Association (UNIA), a Black nationalist movement that in its prime had over one million supporters worldwide.

Must See: A walking tour of St. Ann's Bay is easy and well worth the effort. Start on either side of the town, but as you make your way across do take note of the St. Ann's Bay Parish Library, Garvey's Market Street house, the St. Ann's Bay Courthouse, the old St. Ann's Bay Fort, the Baptist Church on Main Street, Our Lady of Perpetual Help Catholic Church, the market, and the Columbus statue on the west of side town. St. Ann's Bay is compact and easy to get around, so a visit here can be done on the same day as the Seville/Maima Heritage tour. It is almost inevitable that any tour of St. Ann's Bay will end near to or at the beach, a delightful end to an intriguing journey through Jamaica's heritage.

Say Hello To: Any trip to St. Ann's Bay should include a stop at the Parish Library, at the very least to see the statue of Marcus Garvey outside. The library offers public access to the Internet as well as a remarkable collection of information on Jamaica and St. Ann in particular. If you happen to go in, have a quick chat with Fitzroy Campbell, Library Aide, who can help you find anything you need in the library or in the town.

Walker's Wood

General History: Within the lush, Tolkienesque hills of the parish of St Ann, is one of the most remarkable communities on the whole island. The village of Walker's Wood, marked by a tiny explosion of brightly coloured buildings along the main highway, stands as a shining example of how local grassroots organizations can make or break the future of a community in transition.

In the 1970s, faced with poverty, a lack of basic amenities, gross unemployment and constant migration of the area's young people to Kingston, residents of the village banded together to form the Walker’s Wood Village Council, a group made up of nearly fifty representatives from local churches, schools, farms and other organizations in the area. Recognizing that one main root of all the community’s problems was the lack of employment opportunities in the area, the Council first set out to create a sustainable income-generating operation, and from this thrust, the Walkerswood Caribbean Foods Company was born.

Today, Walkerswood is best known locally and internationally for a line of seasoning spices and condiments produced almost exclusively of local Jamaican ingredients, supplied predominantly by farmers in the community. The employee-owned company is a model of community initiative, since over the years it has created for itself a niche in the gourmet foods market, while at the same time providing the community within which it operates with income, stability, and most importantly, a future.

The spice factory is only one success of the Council; to its credit the group has also organized construction of a multi-purpose community centre, construction of the Walker’s Wood Post Office, and is now working with an international development agency on the Coastal Water Improvement Project, which helps to educate farmers on how to develop and operate environmentally friendly farms.

In all, the beauty and character of the community of Walker's Wood is matched only by the physical surroundings; where rolling, verdant hills meet brilliant aqua skies, there is nothing but serenity, cooperation, and a strong independent spirit that is uniquely Jamaican.

Famous For: The name of this small rural village has reached to almost every corner of the globe, as the Walkerswood line of spices, seasonings and condiments has created a niche for its products in the international market. The most famous product, and deservingly so, is the Walkerswood Jerk Seasoning, an aromatic concoction of indigenous spices and seasonings which lends the zesty flavour of traditional jerk to just about any meat or fish dish. The factory itself, located on a hill just outside the town centre, does not at the moment accommodate visitors, although there are plans to expand operations to allow for tours and perhaps a restaurant in the future. For the time being, however, the complete line of Walkerswood products is available at just about any supermarket in Jamaica, and in Walker's Wood at either of the grocers' in the village square.

Must See: The village centre itself is worth the trip to Walker's Wood. The buildings that line the highway have a distinctly rural and tropical aura about them, complete with benches outside to sit, "labrish" (chat) and socialize with people who pause as they carry on their daily business. Just outside the village centre is another worthwhile stop, the Walker's Wood Farm and Craft Market across the street from the Post Office. The market, as the name suggests, sells farm produce and craft items from local farmers and artisans.

Watt Town

General History: Watt Town, a small village deep in the bauxite-rich Dry Harbour Mountains of St Ann is the mecca of Revivalists islandwide, since Revivalism in Jamaica began here in the late 1800s. Located at the top of a steep hill in the village, is the Watt Town Zion Revival Church, a small, humble building set amidst meticulously maintained gardens called "the vineyards" by the congregation.

The gardens are constantly expanding, as visitors to the church who have received inspiration are encouraged to sow a seedling before they leave. The result is a charming and peaceful area, ideal for meditation and bible study.

In its history, the church has had only four leaders, including the legendary Father Donor, who started the church, choosing the location after a vision directed him to the village. Just before his death, he bequeathed leadership to his daughter Emily, who led the congregation for many years, building a congregation and initiating traditions still followed today. After her, a young and dynamic preacher took over, and for many years the name of Leader Linton was constantly associated with the Revival church. Today the church is in the care of the descendants of Mother Donor and Leader Linton; Brother Elgar Linton, the son of Leader Linton, capably assists the welcoming and affable “Leadress” Inez York, who also happens to be the great-great-granddaughter of Mother Emily.

Each year, on the first Thursday in March, the town plays host to the largest revivalist meeting on the island, at which whole church congregations gather around the church for a day and night of constant singing, praying and spiritual healing. The church is equipped to provide accommodation for pilgrims in search of inspiration and healing year-round. Adjoining the "schoolroom" is a building with a series of rustic rooms and dormitories open to believers, who sometimes stay for weeks at a time.

Generally, visitors are welcome, but all guests are asked to be respectful of the church and of the beliefs of the members. Meetings are held several times each day, however, usually there is someone around who will, on request, gladly pray with or for anyone, at any time. The church is maintained by the contributions of pilgrims and congregants, yet, like the community within which it operates, it is constantly strapped for cash. Donations are neither compulsory nor expected; they are, however, highly appreciated, both by the regular congregants and the pilgrims who use the facilities there.

Famous For: The birthplace of Revivalism in Jamaica, the village of Watt Town in the hills of St. Ann is best known for the "Zion church". Depending on which time of day you arrive in town, you will be able to locate the church easily by the loud singing and drumming audible from just about any point in the village. At the church itself, congregants and pilgrims often dress in colourful, loose-fitting gowns to attend meetings, where they dance and protestelyze when "moved by the spirit".

Must See: At the Watt Town Zion Church spiritual schoolroom, the first Thursday of March each year is a special day. The occasion is certainly an experience to behold; hundreds of believers dressed in elaborate and regal gowns gather to sing and pray. Visitors are welcome, but please seek permission from the Leadress or Brother Linton for permission to record or photograph the proceedings.

Say Hello To: Leadress York is a most charming and pleasant personality, who will listen to those that need an ear, teach those in need of guidance and pray for those in need of deliverance.

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Links & Sources:

• WCities
• Wikipedia
• Frommers
• Rough Guides
• Lonely Planet
• Jamaica Touristboard