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Runaway
Bay
Once
a mere satellite of Ocho
Rios, Runaway Bay, 16km (10 miles) west of Ocho
Rios, has become a destination in its own right, with
white-sand beaches that are much less crowded than those in
Ocho Rios.
Since
you're so far removed from the action such as it is in Ocho
Rios, you stay at Runaway Bay mainly if you're interested
in hanging out at a particular resort. It is especially recommended
for those who want to escape from the hordes descending on
Ocho Rios, where
cruise-ship crowds and aggressive vendors can intrude on your
solitude.
This
part of Jamaica's north coast has several distinctions: It
was the first part of the island seen by Columbus, the site
of the first Spanish settlement on the island, and the point
of departure of the last Spaniards leaving Jamaica following
their defeat by the British.
| General
History: Runaway Bay is certainly one of the
most scenic areas in Jamaica, which is probably why it
was the first place in Jamaica to be developed almost
completely as a resort area. |
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Since
the early 1960s, when the old Cardiff Hall Estate was converted
to a combination of luxury hotels, golf courses and private
villas, the town has developed its own character and persona
as an elegant yet lively getaway for those who truly need
to relax, enjoy a bit of luxury and rejuvenate themselves
completely.
Indeed,
much of the beauty of Runaway Bay lies in the fact that while
the town itself is not a vibrant bustling centre, it is conveniently
located within easy reach of Ocho Rios in the east, Montego
Bay in the west, and with Brown's Town inland to the south.
Also as well as having some of the most spectacular beaches
in the Caribbean, Runaway Bay is endowed with captivating
natural features such as the Pear Tree River and the Green
Grotto Caves.
Over
the years, there has been much debate about the name of this
small coastal town. Some believe it got the name as the fleeing
point of the last batch of Spanish soldiers retreating from
English troops under the directive of Governor Ysassi in the
1600s. Others argue that it once was the point of departure
of African slaves from inland sugar plantations who ran away
to Cuba. Whichever story is true, according to one resident,
"nobody nah try (to) run ‘way” from Runaway
Bay today; in fact, in the hills outside the resort town,
many foreigners have run away from their former selves and
made Jamaica home!
Famous For: Do stop by the Green Grotto Caves,
the largest and most accessible caves on the island. The two
caves open to the public are the Runaway Cave and the Green
Grotto Cave, both estimated to be approximately half-million
years old. Along with stalagmites and stalactites, there is
a small and fascinating underground lake in the innermost
cavern. The caves belong to a series of interconnected passageways
and chambers that spread far beneath the Dry Harbour Mountains
to the south. It is said that slaves used the caves as an
escape route, but it is unclear whether these slaves were
running to the coast in order to leave the country, or whether
they were running to the mountainous interior to join bands
of maroons in the mountains. Tours of the caves in which your
guide identifies interesting and sometimes amusing rock formations,
last about 45 minutes and are provided at a small cost.
In
addition to the caves, some of the best beaches in the Caribbean
can be found in Runaway Bay, protected by a large tropical
coral reef. Accordingly, the resort area is one of the most
ideal for water sports, scuba-diving, all outdoor sports and
of course, sunbathing.
Must See: Located on a hill overlooking the
bay is the Runaway Bay HEART Hotel and Training Institute.
HEART, the Human Employment and Resource Training Trust is
a government-run programme that aims to develop practical
and vocational skills among young Jamaicans. The Runaway Bay
HEART Hotel employs predominantly hospitality industry trainees,
and needless to say, since it began operating has maintained
a reputation for excellence in service, since trainees are
graded on guest satisfaction. At the very least, a visit to
the Cardiff Hall Restaurant (also on the hotel property and
run by trainees) is a worthwhile experience, as the culinary
institute usually manages to pull a "clean sweep"
of medal positions in the annual JCDC Culinary Arts Competition.
Upon leaving the institute, apart from being pleasantly satisfied,
guests often feel the warmth and well being of knowing that
their patronage has helped a young Jamaican to master essential
skills for entry into the working world.
Columbus Park Museum
on Queens Highway, Discovery Bay (tel. 876/973-2135), is a
large, open area between the main coast road and the sea at
Discovery Bay. Just pull off the road and walk among the fantastic
collection of exhibits; admission is free. There's everything
from a canoe made from a solid piece of cottonwood (the way
Arawaks did it more than 5 centuries ago) to a stone cross
that was originally placed on the Barrett Estate (14km/8 3/4
miles east of Montego Bay) by Edward Barrett, brother of poet
Elizabeth Barrett Browning. You'll see a tally, used to count
bananas carried on men's heads from plantation to ship, as
well as a planter's strongbox with a weighted lead base to
prevent its theft. Other items are 18th-century cannons, a
Spanish water cooler and calcifier, a fish pot made from bamboo,
a corn husker, and a water wheel. Pimento trees, from which
allspice is produced, dominate the park, which is open daily
from 8am to 4pm (admission is free).
Seville
Great House
Heritage Park
(tel. 876/972-2191).
| Built
in 1745 by the British, it contains a collection of artifacts
once used by everybody from the Amerindians to African
slaves. In all, you're treated to an exhibit of 5 centuries'
worth of Jamaican history. Modest for a great house, it
has wattle-and-daub construction. A small theater presents
a 15-minute historical film about the house. It's open
daily from 9am to 5pm; admission is $4. |
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Bob Marley
Reggae fans from all over the world visit
the little hamlet of Nine Mile to pay their respects at the
Bob Marley Centre & Mausoleum (tel. 876/995-1763), which
is open daily from 9:30am to 6:30pm, charging an admission
of $12.
The village where Marley grew up and where
he was buried has the unusual name of Nine Mile. It's a group
of ramshackle farms, stray goats, and chickens.
You can go inside Marley's two-room shanty,
filled with family memorabilia, including photographs. Marley
lived here from the ages of 6 to 13. Adjoining the shack is
the so-called mausoleum in which Marley was buried. He shares
the gravesite with his half-brother, who was gunned down by
police in Miami during a drug bust.
On-site is a vegetarian restaurant and a little
shop selling Marley tapes.
The big event of the year here is Marley's
birthday each February 6. Reggae fans descend on Nine Mile
to listen to concerts. The performer's son, Ziggy Marley,
also a reggae star, often appears to entertain.
To
reach the pilgrimage site, take the B3 from Ocho
Rios south to Brown's Town,
a distance of 39km (24 miles). From there continue south to
Alexandria for 10km (6 1/4 miles). Once at Alexandria, turn
east (signposted ALVA), going for another 15km (9 1/4 miles)
until you arrive at the hamlet of Nine Mile of Marley fame
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