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South
Coast Walking Tours
Black
River Heritage Tour
Introduction
A
bustling shipping port in the 19th century, Black River
was, at that time, one of Jamaica’s grandest and
most modern towns. It was the first to receive electricity
and to have motorcars, and one of the first to have
telephones. Many of Black River’s residents were
wealthy merchants who built lavish homes in the town.
Boasting a large number of historic buildings, High
Street, Black River’s main street, offers a trail
back in time.
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Start: Invercauld Guest House, High Street
Finish: Black River Safari Tour Centre
Distance/Time: 1 km/30 mins (exclusive of optional
river tour, which lasts 1 hr.)
The
Tour
1.
INVERCAULD GREAT HOUSE
Built in 1894 by Patrick Leyden, member of a famous British
family, Invercauld (formerly Invercall) is the typical 19th
century wealthy merchant’s home. Its graceful design
is characteristically Georgian with gabled roofs, bay windows,
valances and decorative fretwork. Leyden reportedly imported
most of the materials used in the construction from Europe
and North America. Recently renovated, Invercauld is a guesthouse
with 52 air-conditioned rooms and suites and a restaurant.
Leaving Invercauld, begin to walk eastward along High Street.
Pass the Black River Library and the ruins of a building that
once housed a museum, then look for Black River’s majestic
courthouse.
2. THE COURTHOUSE
This imposing building overlooking the turquoise bay is the
hub of activity in Black River, housing both the Legal Court
and the Parish Council Offices. A magnificent Georgian structure,
it has an impressive façade with attractive white columns.
Although the exact date of its construction is unknown, the
courthouse is believed to have been built in the early 20th
century. In the past, it has served as the Town Hall, and
as a stage for plays, concerts, political meetings, fairs
and dances. The two gigantic ficus trees on the courthouse
compound are National Monuments.
Near the courthouse is the:
3. MAGDALA HOUSE
An excellent example of Victorian architecture adapted to
a tropical climate, Magdala House displays a concrete foundation,
wooden structure and window coolers. Originally owned by Tom
Leyden, one of the richest men in 19th century Jamaica, the
house now belongs to the Roman Catholic Church and serves
as a home for abandoned children.
4. RESTORED HOUSES
These include the offices of the parish council and the reputed
former home of the Griffith family, the first family in Jamaica
to own a motorcar. Both buildings may date from the 19th century.
With the sea to your right, continue eastwards, until you
arrive at 44 High Street, directly opposite the remains of
a beached ship.
5. WATERLOO GUEST HOUSE
Formerly owned by John Leyden, this elegant townhouse faces
Black River’s waterfront. In 1893, Waterloo became the
first building in Jamaica to be illuminated by electricity.
It is said that Leyden, a racehorse breeder, wired the house
to an electricity plant at “York Terrace” (now
called School Street) because he wanted to air-condition his
stables. Generously, Leyden decided to supply the whole town
with electricity, making Black River the envy of the island.
A few years later, however, the Leyden family ran out of money
and closed the electricity plant, pitching Black River into
darkness once more. The town went without electricity until
1936. Today, Waterloo has been restored as a guesthouse, and
is a shining example of Black River’s storied past.
After visiting Waterloo, proceed eastward, crossing School
Street, to the Parish Church.
6. ST. ELIZABETH PARISH CHURCH
Erected in approximately 1837 (on the site of a previous chapel
dating back to the 1700s), this graceful yellow brick building
is a mixture of classical and gothic architectural styles.
Topped with battlements and corner pinnacles, the tower boasts
quoins and other intricate details. Inside the church are
mural tablets to Messrs. Munro and Dickenson, the benefactors
of two of Jamaica’s most recognized boarding schools
Munro College and Hampton School for Girls.
Having explored the church and its grounds, walk in an easterly
direction along High Street, crossing North Street, to the
heart of the town.There you will see many old buildings being
used for commercial and retail purposes. After the intersection
with Brigade Street you will see the Hendricks and Co. Building,
to your left, immediately before an old iron bridge over Black
River.
7. THE HENDRICKS & CO. BUILDING
Believed to have been built over 100 years ago, this charming
building houses the Black River Jamaica Tourist Board office.
Drop in and say hello to the JTB representative, who will
gladly answer any questions about the area and Jamaica in
general. The building has belonged to the Hendricks family
since William Hendricks built it in the 1900s. At that time,
it housed a general store that stocked household and hardware
items. Outside the Hendricks and Co. Building, a cannon protrudes
from the asphalt street, a relic of the town’s heyday,
when a small fort and several guns protected the town’s
riches. Back then, old cannons were often used as “hitching
posts” for horses.
From the Hendricks & Co. Building, you may cross the river
and hire a boat to take you on a tour. Stop for a moment on
the bridge and look out for visiting crocodiles swimming in
the murky water or sunning themselves on the banks. The Black
River area is the largest crocodile habitat in Jamaica with
over 300 rare and endangered crocs living in the surrounding
mangroves.
8. THE BLACK RIVER
Several boat companies offer tours along Jamaica’s largest,
and third longest, river – the Black River. Famous for
its rare flora and fauna, including mangroves and American
crocodiles, the river’s name is said to derive from
the large deposits of peat under the water that give it a
dark colour.
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