South Coast

While Negril gets the crowds, the South Coast of Jamaica has only recently begun to attract visitors. The Arawak once lived in sylvan simplicity along these shores before their civilization was destroyed. Early Spanish settlers came here searching for gold; today's traveler comes looking for the untrammeled sands of its secluded beaches. Fishermen still sell their catch at colorful local markets, and the prices, as they say here, are "the way they used to be" in Jamaica.

Most visitors here come east from Negril through Savanna-la-Mar to the high-country, British-style town of Mandeville, then on to a boat tour up the Black River, home of freshwater crocodiles. (Those with more time hit Treasure Beach first before going on to Mandeville.)

The area attracts an adventure-oriented visitor who doesn't want to be picked up in a minivan and hauled to an all-inclusive hotel behind a guarded compound with canned entertainment. It's a sleepy place devoid of duty-free stores, musicians in yellow shirts singing "Yellow Bird," and toga parties. Instead of air-conditioning, you get mosquito nets and ceiling fans.

Yet the beaches here are the equal of those of Montego Bay or Ocho Rios. Restaurants, for the most part, are of the sort you'd have found along the roadside in Jamaica in the 1950s-and some of them are still charging 1950s prices. Local lifestyles, too, remain mostly unchanged by time.

This last frontier of Jamaica will no doubt be invaded by tourism within the next decade or so. But for now it appears, at least in its more remote parts, a sleepy dream from long ago.

The South Coast
Think of this as the undiscovered Jamaica, though the region is beginning to attract more visitors every year; they're drawn by Jamaica's sunniest climate.

Charms of this Region

Peppered Shrimp
Tantalize your taste buds with these scotch-bonnet hot South Coast delicacies.

Black River
Take a boat ride up the meandering Black River, past sultry crocodiles and through mysterious mangroves.

Treasure Beach
Although there’s no pirate’s gold hidden on these sparkling black sand bays, you’ll surely take home a treasure chest of memories.

YS
Tiers of cascading water in a rainforest of possibilities. Rope-swing over the calming cool waters. Let go and plunge into bliss.

Appleton
Where our rum comes from! An intoxicating tour through the headquarters of Jamaican rum heightens your appreciation of our flavourful elixir.

Bird Watching
South Coast’s quiet shores and verdant highlands are perfect for viewing Jamaica’s colourful collection of tropical birds.

Lovers Leap
The view surrounds you. Take it all in with the one you love, the sweeping Pedro Bluff, the jagged shoreline of Cutlass Bay, and miles of the bluest sea.

Little Ochie
Beneath thatch roofs far from it all, enjoy the big taste of mouth-watering seafood cooked any way you like it…

Milk River
Recharge your batteries and soak your troubles away in the invigorating, curative waters of Milk River Bath.

Bamboo Ave
Drive through nature’s perfect archway, leading you from one South Coast adventure to the next.

Alley
Alley, South Coast

General History: Deep in the central sugar-producing regions of the Clarendon plains is the small village of Alley, a tiny community at times dwarfed by the towering sugar cane stalks of the Moneymusk Estate. Since the seventeenth century, Alley has been an important sugar village, located in the heart of the Clarendon sugar belt and closely associated with the neighbouring Moneymusk Sugar Estate. As the capital of the parish formerly known as Vere, Alley is home to one of the oldest churches in Jamaica, St Peter’s Anglican Church. Built in 1671, the church is a modest red brick structure set within a brick-walled churchyard surrounded by enormous cotton trees estimated to be hundreds of years old. Every Sunday, the three-quarter ton cast-iron church bell calls the faithful to worship, and within the church, one of the oldest pipe organs in the Caribbean still plays in tune. St Peter’s is a National Heritage Site, both for the building itself and the churchyard, where there are many old tombstones and monuments to early English settlers.

A short distance away from the church in the district of Amity Hall, still in the heart of cane country, is another curious and historic structure, the old Moneymusk windmill, now the Moneymusk Library. The sugar works at Amity Hall was the centre of operations of the estate for over a century before the newer, more modern factory was built a number of kilometres away from the old site.

Although today the larger community of Lionel Town has overshadowed Alley’s importance, the village is still a significant reservoir of Jamaican heritage and history.

Interesting Story: The church bell at St Peter’s Anglican Church in Alley weighs approximately three quarters of a ton and is solid cast iron. Brought to Jamaica from London in 1857, the bell, which still tolls on Sunday mornings and on special occasions, was crafted by the same company that created London’s most famous landmark, ‘Big Ben’.

Famous For: Alley, like many other rural villages in southern Clarendon, is surrounded by the vast cane fields of the Moneymusk Estate, one of the largest sugar-producing operations in Jamaica. The area is particularly fertile, being naturally irrigated by the many tributaries of the Milk River and the Rio Minho.

Must See: St Peter’s Church is certainly worth a stop, but do also stop at the Moneymusk Library in nearby Amity Hall. The library is located within a brick windmill that was once the centre of the sugar factory works. This is the only brick windmill in Jamaica – all other windmills were made of locally quarried limestone. To date, historians are still trying to understand why the owners of the estate put themselves to such great expense to import bricks from England, but in the meanwhile, the building is open to the public, allowing passers-by to make their own estimations.

Alligator Pond
Alligator Pond, South Coast

General History: Manchester is generally thought of in terms of its cooler climes and mountainous landscape, making the hot, slightly humid fishing village of Alligator Pond at the southwestern corner of the parish almost seem like a different country.

In this humble community, proud home of one of the longest fishing beaches in Jamaica, the catch is always plentiful, smiles are always bright, and there are countless places to have a delicious meal prepared.

Alligator Pond is a haven for seafood lovers, and most of the fish consumed in the parish comes is caught here. Every afternoon, droves of anxious consumers stand on the beach, waiting for the fishermen to come in with the day's catch. At ‘Little Ochi’, possibly the oldest and most famous restaurant in the area, patrons enjoy fried fish and bammy, lobster and other delicacies while sitting in canoes, raised on stilts, under the cover of thatch roofs.

Rustic, intimate, and slow-paced, Alligator Pond is a delightful find, an unpretentious place, where there is little to do but, according to one resident, “go fish, come home, siddung, drink rum and cuss bad word”.

One thing for sure, do not show up expecting to see alligators! There are no alligators anywhere in Jamaica and none in the surrounding waters either. Crocodiles, however, are endemic to Jamaica, and although none have been seen in the Alligator Pond region recently, there are many in the area, which suggests, that at some point in time, there were crocs in the village.

Local lore has it that the village was named Alligator Pond because the hill overlooking the community was shaped like the snout of a crocodile, mistakenly called an alligator. The pond part of the name comes from an area of low-lying land that in times of heavy rains collects water which settles for as long as a few months, creating a small freshwater pool in the shadow of the hill.

Famous For: Alligator Pond is the hippest place in Jamaica to procure all sorts of seafood – cooked or uncooked. Usually the best selections are bought at the morning fish market, where patrons can buy the first catch of the day out of the boats of fishermen coming in from sea.

Must See: If you stop in Alligator Pond, hail up "Blacka", the operator of Little Ochi Restaurant, is a fixture in the small village and a man with a vision for his community. His restaurant has managed to place the community and the South Coast on the map as a place where Jamaicans and tourists alike can share in delectable treats in a rustic, organic setting.

Black River
Black River, South Coast

General History: The capital of the parish of St. Elizabeth, Black River is named after the river that runs through the parish and enters the sea at the southernmost section of the town. Originally called Rio Caobana by the Spanish, the river was once a busy waterway and the primary trade route for sugar and logwood destined for markets outside of Jamaica.

In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the port at Black River was generally regarded as one of the most important ports on the island. As both logwood and sugar declined in importance as Jamaican exports, the once thriving port town became increasingly lax economically, although today it still is one of the most important towns in the southwest section of the island.

The river itself, the longest in Jamaica, winding forty-four miles from the interior to the coast, was used primarily for transporting logwood from the hills of the parish where it was cut to the port of Black River from where it was shipped. Black River's heyday lasted until the logwood industry died, but not before the town of Black River achieved distinction as the first town in Jamaica to receive electricity.

Now the river, which begins in the Cockpit Country as Hector's River and surfaces and disappears at will, is used primarily for shrimping and eco-tourism. From the Black River town end, there are a number of safari operators that for a small fee will take you on a tour of the lower river delta and the Great Morass. The mangroves (swamp areas named after the tropical trees which grow in the swamp mud) along the river are home to a wealth of species of plant and animal life.

The most captivating animals to call the Black River home are the Crocodylus acutus, commonly known as the American Crocodile. Once these magnificent creatures dominated the river, but were hunted almost to extinction for their high-quality skin, used to make purses, belts and other fashion accessories. Now crocodiles are a protected species under Jamaican law, which makes it illegal to hunt or kill them.

A great way to get up close but not so personal with these reptiles is to join one of the motorboat safaris up the river. These tour operators are so familiar with the river and the crocs that they know their territories, mating schedules and have even given some of them names!

An old spa to the west of the town, up until the 1930s was very trendy, and was even a favourite of King Leopold of Belgium. There are hopes that the spa will be revived in the future.

Interesting Story: Waterloo, the house at 44 High Street was the first building in Jamaica to be powered by electricity. Mr. John Leyden built the elegant townhouse in 1875 when the town of Black River was in its zenith as a successful port and a primary economic centre of the island. Leyden, it is said, wired the house to the electricity plant situated at "York Terrace" (now called School Street) because he needed to run an air conditioner for his stabled racehorses. The plant was run from steam generated by burning logwood cut from the interior. The Leydens supplied the whole town with electricity, which at the time made it the talk of the island.

Black River, however, suffered a massive blow when the Leydens ran out of money and closed the business, because then the lights went out. The lights stayed out until 1936, when another company came into town, providing the town with electricity harnessed from the hydroelectric plant in Maggotty, several miles north of the town. In any case, today the house that still remains at 44 High Street has electricity, and is a remarkable symbol of the country's colonial heritage, and of Black River's former glory.

Famous For: The Black River/lower Morass area had at the last count, more than 300 American Crocodiles which live predominantly in the Black River itself. Although those who live in the area claim that the crocs only attack humans during mating season or when their territory is threatened, swimming in the river is NOT recommended. Swimming in the river is not necessary either; everything there is to see can be observed from on board one of the safari boats, which is many, many times safer!

Must See: On the surface of the river itself, look out for bladderwort, a plant that baits small animals, traps them and then eats them after they suffocate or die of lack of food. Bladderwort uses a special type of mucous to attract its prey, which then swims into its path and is devoured by the plant. Jamaican folk legend maintains that bladderwort has healing properties and is a useful salve for many common ailments.

Say Hello To: Mr. Lloyd Linton, Aquatic Ecologist, Marine Biologist and expert in coastal zone management is an expert on Black River. Mr. Linton has been instrumental in researching and assembling information about the Black River and the lower Morass and he is a wonderful resource for all types of information about crocodiles, the river and the flora and fauna found in the surrounding area. Find him at the Irie Safari office on the banks of the river beside the Riverside Dock Restaurant.

Bluefields
Bluefields, South Coast

General History: Bluefields is one of the oldest settled areas in Jamaica, having been the site of the third city built by the Spanish on the island in the seventeenth century.

Oristan, as the Spanish named it, was one of the largest and most important towns to the Spanish, as it provided a protected harbour and a source of fresh water on Jamaica’s south coast, both vital to the strategic defence of the early Spanish colonies.

After the expulsion of the Spanish by the British, the city withered, but the bay was still used, especially by pirates. The name ‘Bluefields’, for instance, is derived from the infamous and much-feared pirate Bleevelt, who also launched attacks from the bay. Bluefields Bay gained further notoriety in 1670 as the bay from which the buccaneer Henry Morgan sailed to ransack the city of Panama. Nowadays, the community has managed to curb the piracy, although the bay is still used by avid seafarers to launch legitimate (albeit not as exciting) fishing expeditions.

Since the early days, Bluefields has been home to some important names in Jamaican history. Phillip Henry Gosse, naturalist, ornithologist, and inventor of the marine aquarium lived and conducted much of his research in the forests and wetlands in the area, and international reggae artiste Peter Tosh was born and raised in the small village of Belmont. Tosh, who is known internationally both for his association with Bob Marley and for his militant anti-establishment lyrics, died in 1987 and is buried in a small mausoleum in his mother’s yard.

Despite its intriguing history, most Jamaicans immediately associate Bluefields with the pristine beach set against verdant rolling hills, a popular destination for locals, especially on public holidays.

Interesting Story: The Bluefields People’s Community Association is a not-for-profit grassroots organization that sprung up in the late 1980s. The organization, which has received much international recognition, aims primarily to promote sustainable social and economic development for the people of Bluefields and surrounding communities. The group fosters small business and agricultural development programs that involve trainings sessions and workshops open to all members of the community.

The achievements of the group are solid and self-evident; the community centre, the success of workshop graduates, and the conservation of the natural environment in and around the area all stand as testament to the idea that communities can, with a little help, make a difference in their own development.

Probably the most impressive thing about the BPCA, however, is the open-door policy, which allows any anyone to offer or to receive assistance through the organization. Over the years, volunteers from around the world have come to Bluefields and worked with Jamaicans to create and implement community development structures, and the friendships formed through these alliances have added much value to a ‘real’ Jamaican experience.

Famous For: Bluefields Beach Park is one of the most popular beaches among Jamaicans. On weekends and public holidays, the park comes alive with the delightful smells and sounds of family picnics, with, of course, reggae music playing in the background. The beach itself is remarkable, and large enough for everyone to enjoy his own space to relax and socialize on the powdery-white sand or in the clear warm water.

Must See: The small community of Belmont falls in the Bluefields area, and in a small yard off the main road is the Peter Tosh Memorial. Peter Tosh, world-renowned Reggae artist, outspoken and militant poet and songwriter was one of the original Wailers who shared Bob Marley's initial rise to fame. Tosh spend his early years in the community before moving to Trench Town in Kingston where he met Livingston "Bunny" Wailer and Bob Marley, when the three combined talents to form the Wailers.

His mother and stepfather still share a humble house a few chains behind the memorial, a small open building containing Tosh's tomb and some memorabilia. Unlike the Bob Marley Mausoleum in Nine Mile, the Peter Tosh memorial is still relatively unknown to all but serious fans, who gather occasionally in the garden to reason, create, or just to chat to the elderly but warm and gracious Elvira Coke, Peter's mother.

Say Hello To: Wolde Kristos is an extremely outgoing young man with great dreams and the drive to achieve them. He is a community activist who works with the Bluefields People's Community Association, organizing projects and securing funding for the organization. Wolde has lived in the Bluefields area all his life, and knows almost everyone in the district, as well as much of the history of the region. Stop in at the BPCA office along the main road and ask for him, he can also help to organize Volunteer/Working holidays, home stays and small excursions into the area.

Canoe Valley
Canoe Valley/Alligator Hole, South Coast

General History: Alligator Hole, a misnomer for a small river with fascinating inhabitants, is found within the Canoe Valley National Nature Preserve, east of Alligator Pond, along a rather revealing drive down a winding coastal road with changing flora.

The name Canoe Valley is said to have some relation to indigenous Jamaicans, the Taino. About 600 years ago, the valley was heavily endowed with cotton trees, used by the Amerindians to carve canoes and other small craft.

The Canoe Valley Park spans 3000 acres, and is made up of mangrove swamps, limestone forests and herbaceous forests. The whole valley occupies approximately 5000 acres, and at last count there were 4 amphibian species, 7 bat species, 23 reptile species and 93 avian species in the area. The Alligator Hole River, created by rainfall in the hills, runs underground for some of its course, meandering through the valley, entering the sea slightly south of Alligator Hole. The water in the river at all points is slightly salty, because it filters through limestone bedrock, dissolving minerals along the way. The river emerges from underground near Hillside Bay at the base of Round Hill, and for its short appearance above ground provides an excellent habitat for both marine and freshwater animals because of its salinity, supporting flora and proximity to the sea.

At Alligator Hole, the Natural Resources Conservation Agency (NRCA) has developed an on-site mini-museum and information centre to introduce visitors to the numerous species of plant and animal life present in the reserve. The river runs below the level of the street, and there, if you are lucky, you may get a rare glimpse of one of three resident endangered Jamaican manatees or "sea cow", which come to drink the fresh water bubbling into the sea from underwater springs.

Manatees are large marine vegetarian mammals that live primarily in shallow coastal waters and in brackish estuaries. Full-grown manatees can reach up to between eight and fifteen feet in length, and up to 1,500 pounds in weight. Sea cows are beautiful creatures that have unfortunately been hunted almost to extinction for their meat and hides in the Caribbean. The three at Alligator Hole River, rescued from local fishermen, have been nursed back to health and are now cared for by the government. Their fate has influenced legislation; today, manatees are a protected species under Jamaican law, so it is illegal to kill or capture any of the few that still live in Jamaican waters.

Scientists and folklorists have recently began theorizing that the concept of mermaids or "river mumma" as they are called in Jamaica, could be because of sightings of female manatees, which have breasts with teats and actually look like women when they surface for air in the night.

Famous For: At about 5 in the evening, the three resident manatees at Alligator Hole swim upstream to be fed by local conservationists. Hang out by the walled lookout above the river (swimming, boating, and touching the manatees is strictly prohibited) and get comfortable. If they come, it will be worth your while! Call to them by name, they are: Dorothy, Hughette, and Joan. Look out for Hughette, she is the one with the cut on her tail, received when her captors tied a rope to drag her away.

Must See: As you wind along the road to Alligator Pond from Alligator Hole, (feel free to use your horn liberally as you drive to warn oncoming motorists of your approach) there is a small sign on a gate on the right side of the road. This is the entrance to Gut River, a serene, untouched sliver of paradise. The river itself empties into the sea a few hundred yards from the road, and is crystal clear for the short distance it flows from its underground source. Local residents testify to curative waters here, although no studies have been done to prove them correct or otherwise. What is true though, is that by the rocks near the road, there are turquoise lagoon-like pools, some as deep as fifteen feet, and all filled with cool, crisp, refreshing water.

Lacovia
Lacovia, South Coast

General History: Lacovia is the longest village in Jamaica, laid out for more than five miles on either side of the south coast highway and the Black River, both of which divide the community into East and West Lacovia.

Amusingly, East Lacovia falls to the south of the river and to the west of the highway, while West Lacovia rests on the northern bank of the river, slightly to the east of the highway (hey, what's in a name!).

Throughout the 18th century Black River and Lacovia alternated as the capital of the parish of St. Elizabeth. Eventually, despite the fact that Lacovia was a very important business centre, Black River became the official capital, probably because of its immensely successful seaport. In the early days, it was Lacovia’s central position, with convenient access to both the road and the river for the transportation of goods to and from the port in Black River on the coast that brought it significance.

At one point in time, the river was the main transportation route for the parish, as road travel through the dense and humid mangrove swamps was treacherous at worst, miserable at best. The name Lacovia seems to be derived from the Spanish name for mahogany - "la caoba", when the main industry was the logging of mahogany trees which were floated down the river to the wharf for export. Today, the cashew nut has replaced mahogany lumber as the prime export of the area, and the Black River is no longer used to transport goods to the parish capital.

An interesting feature of the town is the two tombstones in front of the Texaco station along the main road. There are many legends and much lore associated with the tombstone; some residents claim that it belongs to one of two soldiers who both duelled and died in the area, others claim it holds the body of an unknown British soldier. The truth is truly unclear, but for an unhurried, Jamaican experience, buy a drink for any ‘Coby’ resident waiting for a bus and ask for their version of the story.

Interesting Story: Lacovia was once home to one of the largest Jewish communities in Jamaica, and the town is still of great importance to the existing Jamaican Jewish community today. There are many interesting remnants of that Jewish heritage, including an old graveyard with many telling tombstones. To date there is no formal site, but do contact the Jamaica National Heritage Trust for more information on Jewish settlements in Jamaica. In Lacovia, the Jewish cemetery falls on the land of one Mr. Robinson, who respectfully maintains the tombs and is always accommodating to visitors.

Famous For: In Lacovia, cashews are abundant, but there is only one Cashoo. Cashews are grown all over the district, and cashew nuts are the area's largest cash crop. The only ostriches in Jamaica are bred at Cashoo Ostrich Park, a small attraction and working farm just outside the village. At Cashoo, there is horseback riding, river tubing and lots of prime picnic spots, with a restaurant and bar for grownups and a playground for children.

Must See: Beside the Texaco gas station along the main highway, two grey concrete tombs lie raised, almost in the middle of the road. One is unmarked, but the other belongs to one Thomas Jordan Spencer, said to be an ancestor of the late Duchess of Wales, Princess Diana. Why these men were buried here is a mystery, as are the circumstances surrounding their deaths – but just ask – almost anyone from the area is sure to give an animated account of their personal version of the story.

Say Hello To: Mr. Robinson lives on the land right beside the cemetery. Mr. Robinson is a bit frail these days, (he is rather elderly) but he will happily show you the tombstones that lie interspersed with his pineapple ground.

Malvern
Malvern, South Coast

General History: High in the Santa Cruz Mountains lies the sleepy town of Malvern, named after its counterpart in England, famous for the Malvern Health Resort. For a place in St Elizabeth, (generally regarded as one of the hottest parishes on the island) Malvern has an unusually mild climate; even on very warm days the temperature rarely averages more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It is for this reason that in the nineteenth century, the “Switzerland of the Caribbean” was used mainly as a health resort, as wealthy European planters and landowners welcomed the change from the hot swampy mosquito infested areas in the Black River Morass.

Today, the evidence of the wealth and grandeur that once dominated the village is all about gone, except in a few structures such as the main buildings of Hampton College. Nowadays, Malvern is best known to Jamaicans as the home of three important and historic Jamaican schools, Munro College for boys, Hampton College for girls, and the Bethlehem Teacher's College. Hampton and Munro are two of the few remaining boarding schools in Jamaica. Both still hold well-respected reputations, and are the alma mater of many successful and distinguished Jamaicans.

Most year-round residents of the tiny community are farmers or professionals that work in the plains and commute in order to enjoy the spectacular views and agreeable climate. These residents relate in glee, the fact that there is no movie theatre, no betting shop, or even a place for large social gatherings, much to the distress of the young and restless boarders of the three institutions!

Interesting Story: It is said that during the Second World War, the Belgian King Leopold spent time in Jamaica, much of it at a spa near to Black River, and the remainder in Malvern, at the Malvern Guest House. The Malvern Guest House no longer exists, but its name has remained in the minds of many as the place where His Majesty and the Queen were greeted by the resident housekeeper with a warm Jamaican “Good Morning Mr And Mrs King!”

Famous For: Malvern, at 2,300 feet above sea level is said to have one of the best climates anywhere on earth –dry and cool with crisp unpolluted air. While its climate once made it popular, today Malvern is best known to generations of Munro and Hampton alumni as the place where many memorable coming-of-age moments and schoolmate bonding experiences took place. Every few years, the small village comes alive when the schools hold their reunions, and the mountains reverberate with the sounds of laughter and gaiety of long-lost friends coming together again.

Mandeville
Mandeville, South Coast

General History: A harmonious contrast between the old and the new, Manchester's capital is a booming business centre set amidst rolling hills and lush vegetation. The town is situated some 2000 feet above sea level, and is one of the more peaceful and attractive places on the island.

The name Manchester comes from the days when the Duke of Manchester, who later established the capital and named it after his son, the Viscount of Mandeville in 1816, governed Jamaica. Even back in those days, wealthy English settlers and expatriates favoured this part of the island, building impressive mansions and country homes here because the landscape reminded them of their own countryside in climate, temperament and aesthetic.

Today, a large number of the residents here are Jamaicans who have lived abroad for many years, usually in England, and who have returned to retire. But Mandeville is a far cry from the prim English town it used to be in the earlier part of the twentieth century. In the 1950s large quantities of Bauxite, the mineral ore used to manufacture Aluminium were found deposited in the surrounding countryside and the discovery changed the way the town evolved tremendously.

ALCAN, one of the first companies to mine in Jamaica, set up their offices one mile outside the village green and began excavating around Manchester. The Kirkvine Plant at Kendall was erected to process bauxite into aluminium, the first of its kind in Jamaica, and an important economic and social development for Manchester and the whole country. In the past fifty years, the influx of bauxite money from the nearby factories has thrust the once quiet village into a new role as informal commercial capital of central Jamaica.

Mandeville, however, has not lost touch with itself and its roots, and still, traditions like the Annual Flower Show of the Mandeville Horticultural Society continue, and elegant establishments in town still serve afternoon tea. For Jamaican residents returning to the island, Mandeville is a top choice for retirement, because the town is pleasantly rural, yet offers city conveniences.

At the centre of Jamaica, Mandeville is appropriately a base for travelers and business people alike, with branches of all the nation's major banks, a variety of trendy shopping malls and office buildings easily accessible. When in town, do take time to appreciate the delightful examples of Jamaican architecture; a blend of classic Georgian style created with local materials.

Of particular interest is the Mandeville Court House, built in 1820 with limestone blocks cut by slave labour. The courthouse, one of only four original public buildings, has a portico supported by Doric columns flanked by a curving double staircase. See also the Manchester Parish Church, the Mandeville Jail and Workhouse (now the Police Station) and afterwards, stop for drinks at the historic Mandeville Hotel.

For golf enthusiasts, a visit to the Manchester Club provides a prime opportunity to play an excellent nine holes on Jamaica’s oldest golf course. Hikers and bird watchers will also be pleased to know that some of the best nature opportunities are available in and around town.

The quiet calm of the town is never really disturbed, although throughout the year there are other festivals and events worth stopping by for. In addition to the Annual Flower Show, there is the Manchester Club's Tennis Week, usually held in mid-August, Rebel Salute in January, and a number of food festivals.

Interesting Story: Many of Jamaica's leading public officials hail from the parish of Manchester. Interestingly enough, two of the most famous and longest serving are associated with the area; the original Duke of Manchester, whom the parish is named for, and the eccentric Cecil Charlton, successful businessman and former mayor. Both have an interesting history of public service; the Duke was the longest serving public official in Jamaica for many years, having served nineteen years as Governor, an appointed post that usually lasted no longer than five years.

Cecil Charlton, sno-cone salesman, self made millionaire, farmer and philanthropist, was mayor of Mandeville for a whopping 20 years, and even today, long after his retirement, he is still "Mayor Charlton" to many people. Mayor Charlton is still very involved in Mandeville society and government, and his influence is apparent in the look of Mandeville today.

Mayor Charlton lives in a very unique octagonal mansion on top of Huntingdon Summit, which has an indoor pond attached to the outdoor swimming pool by an underground tunnel along with many other fascinating curios. He entertains guests regularly, and allows tours through his house by appointment. Be sure to stop in and chat - surely he will have many interesting tales to tell!

Famous For: Home of Jamaica's first major bauxite mining facility, Mandeville is today the prosperous metropolis it is because of the mineral found in the blood-red soil. The process of excavating is a fascinating window into an important element of Jamaica's economy, and WINDALCO, the West Indies Alumina Company, offers complete mine tours on appointment.

Must See: Mandeville has retained many characteristics of its colonial heritage. One in particular, the English tradition of maintaining and nurturing complete gardens around fabulous mansions is still a favourite among residents here. The most famous garden in Mandeville is Mrs. Carmen Stephenson's Garden, a delightful showcase of Jamaican flowers and an award winning orchid greenhouse. Mrs. Stephenson is an active member of the Mandeville Horticultural Society, the oldest of its kind in the western Hemisphere. In addition to maintaining her famous garden, she also runs a small flower shop in the Manchester Shopping Centre that is supplied by the garden. Most days, Mrs. Stephenson would be more than happy to chat for a few minutes about the variety she keeps in stock. Please stop by the shop or call ahead to make an appointment to see the famous garden, remember, it is a private residence!

Other houses and homes in and around Mandeville tell the story of the evolution of the area. Two of note, the Marlborough Great House and Cecil Charlton's mansion are private residences, but the owners sometimes offer tours by appointment. The Bloomfield Great House, another beautiful old home, is open to the public on a regular basis. Bloomfield Great House, now houses a gallery on the first floor and a restaurant and bar on the second, and offers prime views of the town and the Manchester countryside. Marshall's Pen Great House, once a farmhouse and coffee factory, provides excellent opportunities for bird-watching, especially since the owners, Robert and Ann Sutton, are an ornithologist and environmental scientist respectively. They receive bird enthusiasts and large groups by special arrangement only.

Say Hello to: Diana McIntyre-Pike, local authority on just about everything and a phenomenal resource for information on Mandeville and the South Coast. Diana also runs Countrystyle Tours, a local community tourism initiative, and the Astra Country Inn, one of the three hotels in town. She has lived in Manchester all her life and knows the area very well. Stop in and say hello, she will take over from there!

May Pen
May Pen, South Coast

General History: May Pen is one of the largest towns in Jamaica and is the parish capital of Clarendon.

The town was created in the eighteenth century on land belonging to a cattle estate owned by a Rev William May, who came to Jamaica as rector of the Kingston Parish Church. Named for the estate, May Pen is said to have first existed as two inns located across from each other on opposite banks of the Rio Minho. Here, travellers were forced to stop rather than risk traversing the raging river, which was then un-bridged. Once a bridge was constructed, May Pen became a popular and fashionable place to live for the landed classes of the interior, and today the town is the fifth largest metropolitan area on the island.

In the May Pen vicinity are some of Jamaica’s premier educational institutions, including the Vere Technical and Glenmuir High schools, Clarendon College and the May Pen Primary School, the largest primary school in the Caribbean. The three secondary schools enjoy an ongoing rivalry in education and sports, and in recent years have brought home the National School’s Challenge Quiz Trophy a number of times.

Near to the town, (which is located in the centre of the country's most agriculturally productive region) is the Denbigh Agricultural Show Ground, the permanent site of the largest agricultural exposition in the country, held annually during the first weekend in August. Each year, ‘Denbigh’ is the largest and most exciting event to take place in Clarendon, as May Pen is usually a sleepy rural town.

For the most part, the folks here are predominantly rural sugar and bauxite workers who make a living from the nearby JAMALCO Bauxite Works and the Moneymusk Sugar Estate. On weekends, however, the town is infused with activity, as hundreds of people from rural Clarendon swarm to the various shops and markets to buy and sell. The heart and soul of May Pen, however, lies in the numerous sports teams, and throughout the year hundreds of people throng to the various venues to watch and support their favourite football, netball or track and field teams.

Famous For: Held over the first weekend in August each year, the Denbigh Agricultural Show is the largest event of its kind in Jamaica, attracting thousands of farmers, shoppers and curious onlookers.

Must See: Every visitor to May Pen should really budget time to stay for a ‘Sunday ball game’ featuring the hometown favourites, Hazard United Football Club. Hazard is a National Premier League team that dominates the central region, however, despite its loyal and enthusiastic following, the team has only won the championship once, in 1992. The games, held at Brancourt on the Four Paths Road leading out of town, are highly spirited and well attended, and win, lose or draw, celebrations in town abound when they are played.

Say Hello To: For information on historic or contemporary May Pen, stop by the Glenmuir High School Library and ask to speak with Ms. Charmaine Holmes. Ms. Holmes, one of the warmest personalities around, will, with advance notice, introduce visitors to ordinary Jamaican people and give helpful directions or information on where to go and what to see in and around May Pen.

Milk River
Milk River, South Coast

General History: The town of Milk River is associated both with the river of the same name, and the mineral spring also found in the area. The river itself is a main source of the water that irrigates the vast agricultural regions of the Clarendon plains, but is largely un-navigable and infested with crocodiles. The mineral springs contain some of the most radioactive waters in the world, but although they bear the same name, the springs do not originate from the river, but from a source near to Round Hill.

The waters at Milk River Bath are highly radioactive, nine times as radioactive as the waters in Bath, England, fifty times as radioactive as those at Vichy in France, and fifty-four times those in Baden in Switzerland. On average, the waters here are a consistent 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the year, and contain high levels of magnesium, calcium, sulphate and natural chloride.

The mineral waters flow directly from a source in a rock and are especially recommended for use by those suffering from rheumatism, arthritis, sciatica and nerve complaints. The waters, however, are so hot and radioactive that patrons are warned to stay in for no more than ten to twenty minutes at a time, and then for no more than three baths per day.

Interesting Story: It is said that the curative waters of the spa were discovered in the eighteenth century during slavery. Legend has it that a slave, owned by one Mr Jonathan Ludford of Clarendon, committed an offence for which he was brutally whipped and locked away in a dungeon. Imprisoned and severely wounded, and vowing never to be a slave again, he broke out of his chains and escaped. Days later, presumed dead by his fellow slaves, the man returned to the estate in full health, healed of the wounds he had received only a few days before.

In an effort to convince others to run away with him, he told a tale of a remarkable salty spring in which he had bathed. Everyone who saw him was amazed at his recovery, and soon, word reached the owner of the estate who had ordered him punished. Ludford himself was astounded at the recovery, and promised to grant the slave freedom if he revealed the location of the spring. The slave lead a party to the location, and Ludford promptly acquired the spring and the lands around it, and started the Milk River Baths.

Upon his death, Ludford bequeathed all property and land to the government and people of Jamaica to benefit all who needed it. Since the first baths opened in 1794, thousands of people have visited Milk River to heal themselves of a variety of ailments.

Famous For: The Milk River Bath is one of the most radioactive mineral springs in the world. Its curative waters are reputed to provide healing for almost all illnesses and over the years, thousands flock to the spa – many repeat guests – to experience this phenomenon.

Must See: Of course, the spa at Milk River is the biggest attraction, but not far away is the famous Farquhar's Beach (commonly called "the beach" by locals). Farquhar's Beach is actually a bay enclosed by a seasonal sand bar that separates the small saline lake from the open sea. Here you can buy lobster, shrimp, or fish from the boats that come in intermittently during the day, but the thrilling find in the area are ancient Taino caves. In these caves, pottery shards line the floor and centuries' old paintings on the cave walls add life and create a connection to the people who once inhabited this island. Please do not remove items from or desecrate the caves, they stand on Taino holy ground and are part of Jamaica's delicate archaeological Heritage.

Say Hello To: Anique Walters works the front desk at the Milk River Hotel and Spa. She will be happy to share information on the facilities offered at the spa and on the history of the area.

Mocho
Mocho, South Coast

General History: Very few visitors (or Jamaicans for that matter) have actually been to the village of Mocho, nestled deep in the Mocho Mountains of the Clarendon interior. Ask any Jamaican about Mocho, however, and everyone has some comment to make. In Jamaica, the name is used disparagingly to refer to the most provincial behaviour, place or item – not in reference to the pleasant and industrious rural community, but rather as a comment on the location that was once one of the most remote and inaccessible in Jamaica.

Pronounced “muk-coh”, the village is a typical rural farming community where small farmers and landowners have cultivated their grounds for generations. The majority of people who live in Mocho work in agriculture; either on the vast sugar estates of the Rio Minho Valley, or on their own farms, producing garden vegetables and ground provisions.

Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz, South Coast

General History: Affectionately called 'Santa' by St. Elizabeth residents, the area takes its name from the Santa Cruz Mountains, which tower above the town.

Santa Cruz is the most central town in the parish of St. Elizabeth, and although Black River is the official parish capital, Santa Cruz is the shopping, socializing and business mecca of the parish. For many people in the inland mountainous areas of the parish, Santa Cruz is the largest town within reasonable travelling distance, and the town attracts people from as far away as Bull Savannah in the south and Accompong in the north.

As one enters the town, it is hard to ignore the fact that Santa Cruz mushroomed from a small market town into a major metropolis; aside from the occasional nineteenth century Jamaican Vernacular building, shopping plazas seem to pop out from every corner and crevice, and everywhere in sight seems to be constantly under construction. All over town, vendors and small shops selling everything from schoolbooks to kitchen knives to cricket balls beckon to the hundreds of people that saunter through in search of bargains and supplies. At any given moment, the town itself is a congested throng of shoppers, sellers, taxis and buses – to add to the chaos, Santa Cruz also happens to be a major transportation hub on Jamaica's south coast. Despite its limited aesthetic appeal, the town exudes a warm vitality and pleasant, welcoming vibe. As busy as people look, just about anyone will stop to give directions, share information, or to just chat for a while.

Famous For: Passing through Santa Cruz, one cannot help but notice all the items for sale everywhere. Anything imaginable is available in Santa, from internet access to cow head soup, from hand-made skirts to made-in-china plastic toys. The town is famous for the shopping opportunities it makes available to the people in St. Elizabeth, who converge in the town en masse to score the best bargains.

Shooter's Hill
Shooter's Hill, South Coast

General History: Deep in the centre of the island, nestled in the hills of Manchester, is the small community of Shooter's Hill, home of Jamaica's famous Pickapeppa Sauce. A concoction of sweetness and spice, the thick brown condiment is a delightful addition to almost any Jamaican meal.

The Pickapeppa Company Limited has been operating from its small factory in Shooter's Hill since 1921, when the recipe was developed and first marketed among local gourmet connoisseurs. Since then, the company has branched out somewhat, and now manufactures four products. In addition to the ‘Jamaican Ketchup’, the original Pickapeppa Sauce, the company has developed and now produces Pickapeppa Hot Red Pepper Sauce, Pickapeppa All Purpose Meat Seasoning, and Pickapeppa Mango Chutney, most of which is exported to more than six major markets around the world.

The most famous of the company's products, the original Pickapeppa Sauce, is a unique blend of eight different spices and flavours including raisins, tamarind, sugar, mangoes, tomatoes, onions and red peppers. The formula used today is the same one that made the sauce initially popular, aged in oak barrels for one year with no added preservatives, and with about eighty per cent of ingredients coming fresh from local farmers. The recipe is a secret of the Lyn Kee Chow family, but visitors may observe the meticulous process of creating the sauce by calling ahead to the factory, where regular tours run from September to April.

Shooter's Hill is also home to another significant factory, the Windalco Bauxite Company, which in 2001 acquired most of the land in the area from the Alcan Bauxite Company as part of their Kirkvine works.

The district of Shooter's Hill, however, for all its unique features, is not unique in name –there are other Shooter's Hills to be found in the parishes of St. Catherine, Hanover, and St. Andrew.

Interesting Story: The Kirkvine Works was the first plant in Jamaica to actually process bauxite into aluminium and is still the largest plant on the island. At one point in the mid-twentieth century, Jamaica was the second largest exporter of bauxite/alumina in the world.

Famous For: Shooter’s Hill is best known as the home of the original Pickapeppa Sauce, produced in the community since 1921. Pickapeppa Sauce can be used on meat dishes, cheese, and fish or simply to add flavour and spice to any meal. It is one of Jamaica's more popular exports, and was one of the first entirely Jamaican products to become known and widely used within international mainstream culinary circles.

Must See: The view: at the top of Shooter's Hill is the tomb of the man who originally owned most of the land in the area, Alexander Woodburn Heron. Heron left instructions in his will to be buried there, and today the Windalco Bauxite Company maintains the tomb. Beside the tomb is an excellent lookout, and on a clear day, one can look across the island and see the Blue Mountain Peak, 60 miles away to the east.

Say Hello To: When in Shooter’s Hill, stop by the Pickapeppa factory for a tour, and ask for Joseph Lyn Kee Chow; oldest member of the Lyn Kee Chow family. He may not be around, since he is semi-retired, but he may turn up while you are there – he does that occasionally, just to make sure that all is going well!

Spur Tree
Spur Tree, South Coast

General History: Spur Tree, a mountainous region lying between the parishes of Manchester and St Elizabeth, seems to have been named in honour of the gigantic cotton trees that used to grow in the area, throwing out huge buttresses or spurs, hence 'Spur tree'.

The descent from the hills of Manchester to the plains of St. Elizabeth is not for the faint-hearted. The hill rises at a breathtaking 304m per half mile as it crosses the Don Figueroa Mountains that dominate the topography of the two parishes. In the old days, travellers would dread the mighty spur tree hill – this long and tedious crossing now takes 15 minutes, but used to take as much as 5 hours! To make the steep climb over the hill carriages would have to be pulled by draught mules or oxen. Many travellers would exchange their carriages for a strong Jamaican pony, accustomed to the terrain.

Today, trucks, buses and regular passenger vehicles make the journey comfortable and easy for some (not the driver!) to appreciate the stunning views of the plains of St Elizabeth and on a clear day, the Caribbean Sea. If the view leaves you breathless or maybe even hungry, dotted along the hillside are ‘Jerk’ stops where you can take in the view (while stationary!), a few cold drinks and indulge in delicious jerk chicken, pork or sausage and the Spur Tree specialty, curried goat and rice.

Famous For: The Hillside Jerk Centre is a favourite local stop. At the summit of the hill, thick clouds of heavily spiced aromatic smoke waft from the jerk pit, enticing even the hurried to pause and appreciate the good food, the good company and the fantastic view!

Must See: By day, the view from the top of Spur Tree Hill is fascinating, but at night it is completely astounding. At night, the lights of the Alpart Bauxite Works at Nain, in operation 24 hours a day, look like a small island city in the middle of the plains. Pull into the parking lot of one of the restaurants on the side of the road to look – the view is best appreciated standing in one spot!

Toll Gate
Toll Gate, South Coast

General History: In the heart of the island, along the main road between May Pen and Mandeville, is the small rural village of Toll Gate. The residents may tell you that not much happens in Toll Gate, and they are right – nowadays very little by the way of excitement passes their way. In the 1850s, however, the village enjoyed its proverbial fifteen minutes of fame when riots, started there, brought the small district to the attention of the whole island and the then government.

The riots began when toll gates were erected along many major thoroughfares, preventing travellers from proceeding to their destinations until they paid a small fee. The tolls collected, it is said, were to fund road building and maintenance, but even the noble intention could not convince the electorate to pay the small fee. Eventually, Governor Eyre abolished the toll gate system, but the village along what is now the A2 retained the name from the toll gate that stood there.

Today, Toll Gate is a major stop for truckers driving across the island, and home to a large community of cattle rearers and elderly farmers. The main income generating activity in the area is farming, seconded by animal husbandry and cane cutting, in season. Generally, the citizens of Toll Gate do not see many tourists, but visitors are always welcome, and members of the community will be happy to talk about ol’ time Jamaica, politics, or anything at all, over a game of dominoes, in one of the shops along the main road.

Must See: When in Toll Gate, do stop at Old Man's Corner, the local hangout spot where old men can be seen passing their days with their friends. If you spend an afternoon there, you can hear some of the most fascinating stories about growing up in Jamaica, and about life in general. Walk over from Joney's Restaurant where you can get humongous portions of cow foot and rice, cow head and yam, cow tail stew, cow cod soup or tripe and beans served hot and prepared to order.

Say Hello To: Look out for "I", a Rastafarian farmer who passes through town occasionally. “I” wears only a crocus bag (burlap) loincloth decorated with colorful threads and is extremely outspoken about leading a holistic lifestyle. He is at one with nature. He also carries with him a small whip (to keep away evil) and will upon request demonstrate how he uses it.

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Links & Sources:

• WCities
• Wikipedia
• Frommers
• Rough Guides
• Lonely Planet
• Jamaica Touristboard